Rockfax Description
135m. An atmospheric, partly subterranean adventure which is possible in the wet. Given the tight squeezes encountered in the network of passageways, consider climbing with a reduced amount of gear and without a helmet or rucksack but take a torch. If in doubt, aim for the light at the end of the tunnel(s)! Climb the initial chimney for 20m to a rock corridor cutting deeply into the buttress. From the dark end of the corridor there are a variety of possible routes:
The Tunnel Route goes through a narrow passage in the left wall into a dark chamber. A further tunnel leads to the second chamber. From the second chamber, climb a narrow tunnel upwards and exit through a small hole (very narrow!) then traverse left across ledges and boulders to the right end of the Arch.
The Through Route climbs up the cave-like end of the corridor to a second, smaller cave. The cave is overcome by a direct strenuous, overhanging exit, leading to a grass ledge. Continue over boulders and a cracked block to reach the Arch.
The Gallery Variation follows The Through Route to the second cave. From here, climb into another chimney in the same fault leading to a third, small cave. Enter the Gallery above this – an eyrie, about 2m wide, just over 1m high and 6m long. Descend just over 1m from the Gallery floor then, facing out, traverse 15m right to where it is possible to climb up to the floor of the Arch.
Finish each variation by crossing the Arch and climb an awkward, shallow chimney (Raeburn's Chimney) followed by grooves and walls leading to the top.
FA R.Morley, M.Wood, J.Wilding, A.S.Pigott, 15 Sep 1920 © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , Through Routes! , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Mountaineering in Scotland: in the footsteps of WH Murray , Type 2 Fun , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Lochaber Esoterica , EUMC - Must do climbs , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , STAUMC Ticklist , Must climb at crags , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , Tunnels, holes and chimneys , Best Squirm's in Scotland , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , A.P's summer , Lairig hitlist , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Scotland climbing
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bartosz | 11 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very long walk in but worth it;) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very long walk in but worth it;) |
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| arkitrekker | 3 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great adventure, and dry after a week of sun. The guidebook descriptions are a bit confusing, but if you follow the tat and crampon scratches, you can't go wrong. There is even a permanent 'point of aid' in the form of a jammed ice axe. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A great adventure, and dry after a week of sun. The guidebook descriptions are a bit confusing, but if you follow the tat and crampon scratches, you can't go wrong. There is even a permanent 'point of aid' in the form of a jammed ice axe. |
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| noskki | 1 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: So I would describe it as follows: The obvious chimney pointing to the right (in)side of the arch. Basically the (through) route follows this chimney with the slight exception of these incredible detours through the church (crypt). Enter the chimney, after a few awkward moves (approx 20m above the start) a corridor opens quite narrowly on the left. Follow this in a spiralling way to find yourself on a platform about half way up the chimney. Now follow the original chimney again into the depth (choke stones above) to climb/wiggle and crawl higher through a tiny opening. The space opens up again, this time deeper in the chimney and there is a bigger choke stone directly above. Now move out the chimney on ledges and good holds (also on the choke stone) to gain the right edge of the arch and through it to a comfortable ledge on the face behind it. Intersection with Flake route. Across the arch up another chimney and increasingly easier to the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: So I would describe it as follows: The obvious chimney pointing to the right (in)side of the arch. Basically the (through) route follows this chimney with the slight exception of these incredible detours through the church (crypt). Enter the chimney, after a few awkward moves (approx 20m above the start) a corridor opens quite narrowly on the left. Follow this in a spiralling way to find yourself on a platform about half way up the chimney. Now follow the original chimney again into the depth (choke stones above) to climb/wiggle and crawl higher through a tiny opening. The space opens up again, this time deeper in the chimney and there is a bigger choke stone directly above. Now move out the chimney on ledges and good holds (also on the choke stone) to gain the right edge of the arch and through it to a comfortable ledge on the face behind it. Intersection with Flake route. Across the arch up another chimney and increasingly easier to the top. |
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Logged Ascents
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Archangel Route
Grade: VD ***
(Trallval)