Rockfax Description
270m. Another great classic based on the slim hanging corner to the right of the central slabs. The line is devious and complex, and the corner is reached by an intricate traverse from above the first pitch of Centurion. It was named after the great swooping falls taken on the first ascent, much of which was reputedly climbed at night.
1. 15m 4c Centurion, pitch 1.
2. 35m 5a Follow the Centurion corner for 6m, then traverse right across a pink slab to a perched block. Continue moving right along a shelf to a block belay.
3. 25m 5a Descend to the right for 3m to enter a bottomless groove, and climb a short wall to a triangular slab. Climb the V-groove above, then right along slabs to a belay beneath the left edge of a deep chimney.
4. 15m 5b The Hoodie Groove: A steep shallow groove on the left of the chimney, then enter the main corner.
5. 30m 5b Climb the corner to the overhang, then launch into the wide corner-crack above. Continue boldly to a ledge and belay.
6. 35m 4b Climb the groove to the left end of a large terrace. (It is possible to traverse right from here and abseil down Titan's Wall.)
7 to 9. 120m Continue up the line of grooves above to the top of the buttress.
FA D.Haston, R.Smith, Sep 1959 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic route with great positions and exposure, and a fantastic crux pitch. Route finding isn't as intricate as the topo may suggest.
The top half of the route is of little interest, and it is often abandoned after pitch 6 in favor of a
long traverse right on ledges to the abseil point of Titan's Wall.

Ticklists

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