Rockfax Description
305m. Thought by those in the know as the UK's best E6!
1. 30m 5b Start up Centurion and continue as for King Kong across the pink slab to belay on the perched block.
2. 25m 6a Move left, up and back right, then up right to a perch on the slab. Go direct, then round the arête to a recess. Spike 5m above.
3. 30m 6b Step down right and gain the huge 'Boot Flake' which leads more easily to a small overlap. Commit out and up right to a jug, a flake above and a rest on the arête below an uninviting groove. Traverse left and up a parallel groove to a thin overlap. Go right into the other groove (gear!) and a good hold on the arête. Go back left and pull through the final overlap close to the left rib and easy ground to belay.
4. 40m 6a Traverse left 10m along a fault to a crack that splits the slab and overlap above. Climb into a slim hanging groove. Lean right to gain two jugs, then go direct up a sustained groove above. Belay below the roof.
5. 15m Easily slightly leftwards to belay below a small right-facing corner near the right end of the huge roof system.
6. 30m 5c Climb the corner, move left into a slim groove leading to a rib and belay on a good ledge.
7. 50m 4c Out right and up over vegetated ledges to climb a loose (usually wet) corner, pulling right to solid rock in a blocky crack. Scramble leftwards to a block belay on a ledge.
8, 9. Go right and up cracks in a slabby corner. Easier scrambling leads leftwards to the top.
FA R.Campbell, G.Latter, 20 Sep 2003 / 7 Sept 2004 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A route climbing the front face of the pillar right of the main pitch of King Kong
Ticklists
The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Campbell | 4 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: The 6a pitch above the crux pitch starts with a long traverse left reversing Bullroar until below the middle of the smooth slab, the line then heads up the slab into a small left facing corner in the overlaps above. Or look at the photo diagrams in the recent guides. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The 6a pitch above the crux pitch starts with a long traverse left reversing Bullroar until below the middle of the smooth slab, the line then heads up the slab into a small left facing corner in the overlaps above. Or look at the photo diagrams in the recent guides. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Ben Nevis
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Jarldom Reach
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Loch Maree Crag)