Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Up a short flake just right of the arete to where awkward moves gain better holds. Continue steeply right of the arete - rounded. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1992. The name is a historical blooper confusing the Armada with Napoleon's mob, I was only 200 years out!.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris sm 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This felt quite ackward and a little bold to me - not sure I like this super-rounded break to break climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This felt quite ackward and a little bold to me - not sure I like this super-rounded break to break climbing.
Chris the Tall 29 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's the sort of route thats quite awkward and bold to do first time, but once you've sussed it out, would feel much easier. Quite pleasant though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's the sort of route thats quite awkward and bold to do first time, but once you've sussed it out, would feel much easier. Quite pleasant though

Logged Ascents

405 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 70
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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