Rockfax Description
The original classic here. Climb either side of the left-hand jammed block, then continue direct for 6m until a ledge on the left can be reached. Move left to finish up the arete. © Rockfax
FA. Fergus Graham 1922.
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Stanage , Peaky , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , George is a real VS climber , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| milanboez | 20 Jun |
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βeta: lovely route with a comical start, but VS 4c??? More like S 4a and even then I'm not sure which bit would be 4a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: lovely route with a comical start, but VS 4c??? More like S 4a and even then I'm not sure which bit would be 4a. |
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| Capricorn One | 30 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: BMC guide switches the start for this with the start for The Scoop. Both appear to be about the same difficulty. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: BMC guide switches the start for this with the start for The Scoop. Both appear to be about the same difficulty. |
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| THE.WALRUS | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: The start feels outrageous - ended-up on my back, propelling myself along the shelf by pushing my feet against a block. Apparently, this is the correct procedure. The rest of the climb is pretty reasonable. You won't regret saving a big cam to protect the final couple of meters. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The start feels outrageous - ended-up on my back, propelling myself along the shelf by pushing my feet against a block. Apparently, this is the correct procedure. The rest of the climb is pretty reasonable. You won't regret saving a big cam to protect the final couple of meters. |
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| MorganMcGlade | 2 Apr, 2020 |
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βeta: no gear on last 2m. but super bomber hand on top hold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: no gear on last 2m. but super bomber hand on top hold. |
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| Iain Thow | 3 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: OK the start is hard, but above that it's only severe. If Verandah Buttress is only severe, then this certainly isn't VS | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: OK the start is hard, but above that it's only severe. If Verandah Buttress is only severe, then this certainly isn't VS |
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| CurlyStevo | 27 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: The left hand start can be done in numerous ways. I hooked a right leg over the tip of the block and then used my feet for friction to shuffle up. My mate just simply shuffled slowly up with both feet down left. 4b seems about right and with reasonable gear so HS. Easy HS above. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The left hand start can be done in numerous ways. I hooked a right leg over the tip of the block and then used my feet for friction to shuffle up. My mate just simply shuffled slowly up with both feet down left. 4b seems about right and with reasonable gear so HS. Easy HS above. |
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| shaun walby | 15 Nov, 2003 |
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βeta: First attempt couldn,t do the top, went too far left. Gaining the final jug up the arete was a bit reachy been a short ass so that was the crux for me, the start is only a bit tricky and can be well protected. Dont be fooled by looking up at this climb (i was) it looks like a jug fest it isnt... a very good VS4b | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First attempt couldn,t do the top, went too far left. Gaining the final jug up the arete was a bit reachy been a short ass so that was the crux for me, the start is only a bit tricky and can be well protected. Dont be fooled by looking up at this climb (i was) it looks like a jug fest it isnt... a very good VS4b |
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| gav p | 12 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: The left hand start option is a pig of a vdiff thrutching exercise. Not pretty. Route pleasant enough above, probably just worth the 2 stars. Give the RH start a try. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The left hand start option is a pig of a vdiff thrutching exercise. Not pretty. Route pleasant enough above, probably just worth the 2 stars. Give the RH start a try. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Gargoyle Flake
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)