Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Start as for the last route, but step right and access the arete from the ramp. The final precarious section is reachy and harrowing, especially for the short. Wires in the creaky flake really shouldn't be relied upon. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 14/Jun/1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist , Eastern Grit E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan James - Rockfax | 18 Jan, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Name now updated to the correct version after the 1970s Strangler's album. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Name now updated to the correct version after the 1970s Strangler's album. |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: was having a ball going up this in style gear in the hollow stand on the small edges above hands on little edges leaning in so could take a balency rest. dont think of myself as short so at 1.78m was about 2 inch short of the next hold, oh dear gear bellow feet not good ground waiting climbing on sight had to make a small dino to hold which is ok if you get your right hand up fast to the undercut above, mate at 6 foot 3 found it a walk in the park on a second E2 fir the none monkeys HVS for gibbons | ||
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Show beta
βeta: was having a ball going up this in style gear in the hollow stand on the small edges above hands on little edges leaning in so could take a balency rest. dont think of myself as short so at 1.78m was about 2 inch short of the next hold, oh dear gear bellow feet not good ground waiting climbing on sight had to make a small dino to hold which is ok if you get your right hand up fast to the undercut above, mate at 6 foot 3 found it a walk in the park on a second E2 fir the none monkeys HVS for gibbons |
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| Chris the Tall | 27 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, the crux is easy if you're tall, but the gear is a bit dubious | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant, the crux is easy if you're tall, but the gear is a bit dubious |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Debauchery
Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)