Rockfax Description
Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of these by laybacking and jamming. Big gear needed. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| howlingbaboon | 5 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet! |
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| Si dH | 12 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route. |
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| Fidget | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off! |
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| Monk | 8 Dec, 2003 |
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βeta: People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places. |
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| Monk | 8 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky. |
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Logged Ascents
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Moneylender's Crack
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)