Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
The thin seam running up to the col gives a fierce pitch with a short blank section passed by determined finger jamming. The upper section is easier - you can move left to the lower-off but that would make it quite a short pitch. © Rockfax
FA. John Codling, Chris Calow 1978.
Ticklists
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tomdale | 9 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower of the two threads no longer there and top one needs replacing. Attempted to replace the lower thread but none of my tat was small enough. Very tricky to get it into the good bit - there is a very thin thread at the opening of the pocket, but a much better one deeper in which is tricky to do. Would come back and try again to rethread if it weren't for the 4hr drive.. For any would-be rethreaders, I'd take some thin (maybe 3mm) cord and a bent paperclip or something to hook with. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lower of the two threads no longer there and top one needs replacing. Attempted to replace the lower thread but none of my tat was small enough. Very tricky to get it into the good bit - there is a very thin thread at the opening of the pocket, but a much better one deeper in which is tricky to do. Would come back and try again to rethread if it weren't for the 4hr drive.. For any would-be rethreaders, I'd take some thin (maybe 3mm) cord and a bent paperclip or something to hook with. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Off With His Head
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage Popular)