Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang, then trend left past a well-marked runner slot to hard moves over the nose. Another hard move using a pocket, leads through the final roof to an easy finish. © Rockfax
FA. Andy Barker 1982.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Gillott | 5 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose? |
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| simon cox | 4 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground. |
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| GDes | 13 Apr, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Old Friends
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage North)