Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
One of the best routes in the dale - a big pitch, steep sustained and in a superb situation. Several old pegs remain though plenty of more modern alternatives are available. Climb straight up the tricky fingery wall into the base of the slanting fault of John Peel. Follow this until it starts to lean to the right and awkward, exposed moves can be made out onto the face on the left. Climb steeply into the long crack and then follow it all the way to the cliff top. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Read, Rod Leeming, D Carnell, P Brown, S Hunt mid (A2) 1950s FFA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (well almost - 2 pts) 1969 1955.
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad , Lime trad for hobbyists , The Eal List , Dunc's ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| midgets of the world unite | 24 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the combination of Topo and description makes the start of this route hard to identify. If I understand correctly, it actually starts up a faint groove/crackline immediately right of the tree in the gully. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I think the combination of Topo and description makes the start of this route hard to identify. If I understand correctly, it actually starts up a faint groove/crackline immediately right of the tree in the gully. |
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| MNA123 | 12 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fell off polished move about 4 metres up smacked off big tree and sprained ankle,stupid gay route,i hate polished limestone :( | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fell off polished move about 4 metres up smacked off big tree and sprained ankle,stupid gay route,i hate polished limestone :( |
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| Chris the Tall | 16 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome!! Crux is low down (jct with JP) and a long reach helps clipping the 2nd peg, but the route is really sustained that reaching the summit is really satisfying. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome!! Crux is low down (jct with JP) and a long reach helps clipping the 2nd peg, but the route is really sustained that reaching the summit is really satisfying. |
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| John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Great fun. I placed about 20 runners. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great fun. I placed about 20 runners. |
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| Simonjudge | 14 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Check no one is below you - a bit of dodgy rock around. Cracking route though, not that pumpy at all since plenty of rests. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Check no one is below you - a bit of dodgy rock around. Cracking route though, not that pumpy at all since plenty of rests. |
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| GrahamD | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excellent, sustained but not desperate. As of 13/3/2005 there was an owl nesting halfway up the final groove, near the remains of the bush. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent, sustained but not desperate. As of 13/3/2005 there was an owl nesting halfway up the final groove, near the remains of the bush. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Kelly's Overhang
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)