Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Follow flakes left out onto the face and finish with some urgency. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn 1963.

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 31 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y.
Show beta
βeta: This is big beta but may save someone hurting themselves. You can place and check gear in the initial crack by toe-hooking the right arete. Give it a go! Otherwise too barndoor-y.
andybirtwistle 1 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tad worrying as Andy had just taken a fall on Surgeons Saunter. .My first HVS since reaching 70
leon 17 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds.
Tom Chamberlain 10 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS?
Nick Smith - Climbers 22 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge.
Nick Smith - Climbers 22 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide).

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 115
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 163
Votes cast 160
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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