Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A taxing finish to Old Salt up the flying right arete. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 1 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is poorly describe? Is a good route and worth a star if the face is climbed directly and worth E2 5c (hard for 5c!!). Using holds round the right arete is some sort of hash with the top of the HVS validation and must be rubbish and easy, no wonder some people find this easy. Interestingly the earliest description i can find in the 1989 guide just describes it as a direct finish to Old Salt and nothing about the arete. I think the arete bit comes from after you have done the moves up the face you end up being stood on the break and the final topout move would be eliminate without the arete which is now in easy reach. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Is poorly describe? Is a good route and worth a star if the face is climbed directly and worth E2 5c (hard for 5c!!). Using holds round the right arete is some sort of hash with the top of the HVS validation and must be rubbish and easy, no wonder some people find this easy. Interestingly the earliest description i can find in the 1989 guide just describes it as a direct finish to Old Salt and nothing about the arete. I think the arete bit comes from after you have done the moves up the face you end up being stood on the break and the final topout move would be eliminate without the arete which is now in easy reach. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Phil's Route
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Dovedale)