UKH

My B3 boots died on the hill yesterday (the sole fell off) leaving me with only my trusty plastic Scarpa Vegas left for climbing (I was still using them two years ago) so what boots to buy - what is everyone wearing now?

Trips to the CIC huts on previous years showed that everyone wearing Nepal Extremes - is this still the case or have things moved on?

What boot to get for Scottish winter climbing?

What did you have before?

I have always got on well with my Mont Blancs. Generally warm and comfortable. Possibly a little heavier than some, but that is possibly where the warmth comes from.

To preface this I work for an outdoor retailer, so I may have a slight bias. 

I would highly recommend you go and try a bunch on at a specialist shop when they open again. Any shop worth their salt should be able to find you a boot that fits your foot and make any adjustments to make it comfortable from early on. You don't need to suffer through breaking boots in for many trips nowadays with all the options out there.

Cheers

Matt

I remember going into Outside at Hathersage and getting through 5 pairs of boots before I found the right fit. Nepal cubes ended up being the boot that fitted the best. I still have a pair of boots from around 10 years ago that are virtually new that don't fit, money wasted. (43's btw)

Comfy wellingtons for the approach, possibly with some micro-spikes at the ready, then something non-leather that stays drier for the climbing.

What size are your feet? I have some Nepal Extremes for sale, size 4.5. Any use?

I remember seeing you on Tower Ridge.

Hard to forget...Green Wellies swinging from a rucksac whilst bridging the gap...🤣

I wish I could take credit for that, though it does show the pragmatism is catching on. I got the idea after commenting to a well-seasoned couple I came across in Scotland who simply stated they couldn't believe everyone didn't. A bit like moaning that expensive gloves don't work then finding Japanese fishing gloves for a tenth the price.....

Japanese fishing gloves...ha ha.

Your wit is on another level.

I wear 'japanese fishing gloves' for winter climbing.  

Ok...ok...I'm sparticus

Can I ask....I noticed you climbed on Gable on the 30/12...says you're based in Yorkshire.

Can you put me right?

I'm serious

https://www.showaglove.co.jp/product/detail/professional/708

I know,I've used bin wagon gloves for climbing in.

So let's talk about wellies for the walk in....🤣

It says not to belay in them? How much are they as I couldn't find it on the link? 

Fair enough. I think the new generation of hipster wellies are the go as they fit better and have softer uppers. The reason your guy with the green ones can't have been me is mine are rainbow swirls with the Grateful Dead bear on them.

I belay with them, but they suffer from abseiling.

In the UK I think they are about 15-20 quid. Apparently a free sample is possible direct from the company. In Japan they are JPY1500 - 3000 depending on model, from hardware stores.

I've got OR bitterblaze for my technical gloves and I'm really impressed with them, but my back ups are aldi specials which work but could better. I like the look Japanese winter fishing gloves, tell me more! How heavy, warm, packable etc are they? 

I use Scarpa Mountain Tech as they're dead comfy for hiking and climb really well.  However as mentioned above, fit is king, especially if you're splashing out such a large amount of cash.

So I wear the original ones as I don't like the draw cuff on the ones aimed at outdoor users. They are very, very blue as in Smurfs.

Think of robust dishwashing gloves lined with something similar to Polartec Alpha, and a grainy texture on the palms and fingers. They're a fetishists delight, and in Japan apparently come from the fishermen off the northern shores and probably the whaling fleets too if we are going to get into it.

They climb really well as they are grippy, dexterous and absorb no water. They don't breath that well but the open cuffs help, and they dry quickly. They do get cold if sweat cools inside them, like any glove. They say -60c on the packet but I don't know what that alludes to, being industrial it could mean snap freezing tuna with dry ice.

They are pre-shaped and a bit over sized, and I occasionally wear a liner with them which works ok. Having rubber shells, they seem more affected by convective heat loss ie wind across them, than fabric gloves.

For dripping ice falls nothing compares, also in snow. A pair lasts a season or two and neither requires nor accepts any maintenance, they are semi-disposable.

I have the Nepal Evos. Love them. 

On my third pair of Nepal tops which can be found at a reasonable cost. Never had a blister with them. That said I do quite like the integral gaiter and easier lacing system on some more modern boots. Got to fit though 

I have Nepal Evos (pre Cube) which fit my big wide feet well. However my size 46.5 pair weighs 2.7kgs. I'm only a little guy so this is a lot of energy-sapping mass to walk uphill in. My Trango Evo Extremes in a 47 are a bit lighter at 2.3kgs. I'm planning on getting the latest Trango Tower Extreme for a big weight saving, I believe a pair is around 1.8kgs.

FWIW about 18 months ago I went for the recently superceded model of Nepal Cubes that were available for a decent price.

I'm fairly lucky in that I generally fit both Sportiva and Scarpa in a 42.

It came down to 3 things. I wanted a genuine B3, I wanted durability over weight savings and I didn't want to pay more than £300.

If money (and time) isn't necessarily the deal breaker, try on as many options as possible, assuming that after lockdown you can visit the obvious locations with decent outdoor shops (N Wales, Lakes, Peak etc.) and then buy whatever fits best. 

Otherwise it's probably a case of doing a bit of online research (as you're already doing), trying a few options on when you get the chance and then taking a bit of a chance on buying once you spot a genuinely good deal. 

The wellies thing....maybe in the 80's or 90's but I don't see the need now, boots are so much lighter and comfier.

I got some of the Showa gloves though and they're pretty good.

Yikes ! Thanks Waitout, I just fell down the Showa glove rabbit hole! Turns out that they have an European site too, handy for those that don't read Japanese. Some lovely gloves !

Thanks - I went for a pair of nepal evo gtx in the end - and they are far far lighter than my scarpa vegas  

Have only tried them on a winter walk, seemed ok for walking, have yet to get the opportunity to try them climbing - maybe next winter!