/ Stories of 'the fall'.

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TobyA 19 Oct 2019

I happened to stumble over a short video that Montane has released of Simon Yearsley recalling the closest he has ever come to 'the edge', in this case Helen Rennard taking a massive gear ripping fall somewhere remote in the NW winter Highlands, the fall almost destroying the belay that Simon and Malcolm Bass were attached to as well. There's no footage of the climb, no photos, it's just Simon telling the story, but I thought completely gripping nevertheless.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zVpUSyQ9Wk It looks like Montane have done a series like this, but this is the only one online so far.

I once had a slightly similar experience of my mate falling off steep ground before he had manage to get a runner in. My belay held but there was a few cm rip in the turf where my warthog had obviously taken the brunt of the impact. I remember a similar experience of yelling my friend's name into the void for what seemed like forever, probably actually just a few seconds, before hearing "I'm ok!" followed by a more relieved sounding "...and I've still got both my tools!" First route after Xmas, and they had been Olli's present!

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Patrick Roman 19 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

> ... the closest he has ever come to 'the edge'...

If that’s the worst that happens to you over a career of climbing, I’d count myself lucky. Just my opinion.

Link to the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund page and interviews:

https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund

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In reply to Patrick Roman:

I don't think you could tell a story about your most dangerous climbing experience if you had died in the fall. 

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Stuart the postie 19 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Back in 1998, Alps in winter, climbed Swiss Route, Les Courtes. Descending NE slope, glissading, tripped!

Cartwheeling, bouncing, down lower 300m odd, airborne, cleared bergschrund (just)! Lost ice screw, belay plate, broke my Swatch, ice axe in chin, tore my posterior cruciate ligament. Stood up, shouted 'I'm ok!'

Worse for him, I had the rope, he had to jump the bergschrund.....

Stuart

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Patrick Roman 20 Oct 2019
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Maybe you’re not getting my point?! The AAC link ties in to stories that document genuinely serious issues. This thread ties in to an advert for a clothing manufacturer.

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TobyA 20 Oct 2019
In reply to Patrick Roman:

It's sponsored by Montane, their logo is there at the start and end, but I don't see how that makes it an advert, in anything but the loosest sense.

And it's not about grief and loss of friends like the AAC videos, it about getting to a 'line' that you don't want to cross. I guess where that line is, is different for all of us and also not really that clear to ourselves.

The AAC videos are very interesting and moving on the subject of grief, but that's not why I shared the original video.  My post wasn't meant to start a game sadness Top Trumps, I thought Simon's story was both well told and thought provoking.

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Patrick Roman 20 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

> ... I thought Simon's story was both well told and thought provoking.

And I didn’t. But the next time I have to apply an elastoplast in the mountains I’ll be sure to make a 10 minute video about it 🙄

Post edited at 09:55
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olddirtydoggy 20 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Great vid and the kind that makes you think. This will no doubt start a few posts from members about close ones. More of this kind of stuff, thanks for posting.

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In reply to Patrick Roman:

> next time I have to apply an elastoplast in the mountains I’ll be sure to make a 10 minute video about it 🙄

It sounds like you're pretty keen to create an advert for Elastoplast. 

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TobyA 20 Oct 2019
In reply to Patrick Roman:

> And I didn’t.

Which is an absolutely valid opinion to hold.

> But the next time I have to apply an elastoplast in the mountains I’ll be sure to make a 10 minute video about it 🙄

But then that just comes over as wanting another round of Top Tumps, except you've gone from the "Tragedies" pack to the "hardest climber" pack.

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donrobson 22 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Many years ago a friend and I went to do a scramble on the east face of Tryfan.  He had done a scrambling course at Plas y Brenin.  We had a rope and slings.  We got to one of the terraces and there was a short wall to the next easy bit.  He decided we should use the rope.  I put the 2m sling around a huge block - half a mini car - and belayed him.  He struggled on the wall and jumped off onto the block.

The block began to move and ended up several thousand feet below- thank God nobody below.  How did we survive? The block ran over the sling - and the rope - separating me from the block and the two of us as well.  We survived and learnt.  The rope remnants were used/abused after that!

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Ian Parsons 23 Oct 2019
In reply to donrobso

> The block began to move and ended up several thousand feet below

Bloody hell! The Welsh have certainly kept that one under their hats. How far up Tryfan [3010ft, approx]

 were you? Have you told the Tourist Board?

Above vaguely amusing/snarky observations notwithstanding - excellent tale!

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elsewhere 23 Oct 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Not a story of the fall, but after the fall.

At A & E the nurse asked if I wanted my dad to come with me to see the doctor.

My climbing partner, only a few years older than me, was raging when I told him. So I've told him a few times.

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Montane 03 Dec 2019
In reply to TobyA:

Montane has put another one of these out - this time from Malcolm Bass.  Unlike Simons it focusses on the greater ranges, but is none the less a great little watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puMDJdjAqes

Interesting to hear about a completely different set of circumstances and a different set of risks.  Can't think what would be worse; a few split-seconds of abject terror at a situation out of my control, or a measured, lengthy conversation about a decision that could mean the difference between misison success or life failure!

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