Rock climbs that should be attempted in winter

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 Aled Williams 30 Dec 2022

Was sat in the bath reading various opinionated posts about the ethics of winter climbing and how winter climbers should not climb route "xxxx" as ice tools would destroy the route.

So this got me thinking !

What summer rock routes have not been done in winter, but really should get a winter ascent ? 

2
 DaveHK 30 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

I saw ice dribbling off the overhang of Poseidon Adventure at Bowden last year.

 DaveHK 30 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

> What summer rock routes have not been done in winter, but really should get a winter ascent ? 

The people who have good, sensible answers to this are never going to say.

 Prof. Outdoors 30 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

Mmmm, a rock climb to be done in crampons?

Scratch Arete?

 John Kelly 30 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

Huge difference between climbing in wintertime and climbing in winter conditions. If you can find a bit of sunshine and some shelter from the wind even high crags can be reasonable venues - not winter conditions but very satisfying to work with whats available

For rock climbing in winter conditions read Nanga Parbat sanctuary

1
 HammondR 30 Dec 2022
In reply to John Kelly: I think you mean Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage?

 John Kelly 31 Dec 2022
In reply to HammondR:

Doh, of course, thanks - re reading it currently, some amazing descriptions of climbing rock in winter

Post edited at 06:43
 Alex Riley 31 Dec 2022
In reply to John Kelly:

If I'm remembering correctly weren't didn't Buhl take meth for that ascent?

There are some routes on Mynydd Mawr I've had my eye on that would probably make better winter routes than summer climbs. Unfortunately it's really low lying so probably won't freeze anytime soon.

 Graeme Hammond 31 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

I can't imagen Gist Ddu coming into condition easily and remote nature of the crag would likely mean it would be inaccessible in such conditions for most climbers. However if it did and you could get there, I suspect that the left hand side of the crag amongst the jumble of rock and vegetation (away from the few summer routes that see ascents) would be fair game  for some good FWA.

 PaulJepson 31 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

Doom (VS 4c)

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 nniff 31 Dec 2022
In reply to Aled Williams:

The Quartz Icicle, obviously.

 mattsccm 01 Jan 2023
In reply to nniff:

Surely quite a few Welsh slate routes lend themselves to crampons? Tiny nicks for holds.

1

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