UKH

Hi all.  Two experienced ice climbers coming from the US hoping to tackle some famous Ben Nevis ice and alpine routes in early January. How realistic are routes like Vanishing Gully and Orion Direct in early January? Thank you for any beta!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/conditions/uk_winter/

The conditions page gives a good idea of what has been climbed recently, there are also active winter climbing groups on Facebook. It looks like not much has been climbed on Ben Nevis this week. Normally these sorts of routes take a few freeze thaw cycles to form.

The best plan is probably to keep your options open, it's only a short drive (by American standards) to other areas like the Cairngorms if conditions are better elsewhere.

Anything can happen in Scotland regarding what is in condition when but the snow ice routes on Ben Nevis tend to be best formed from February onwards with early March being prime season.

Some of the ice routes form faster:

If its a good cold freeze then

The Curtain (IV 5) will form.

Point Five Gully (V 5) and Hadrian's Wall Direct (V 5) are probably the fastest forming snow-ice grade Vs.

Www.sais.gov.uk is worth following so you can see how things are developing and keep an eye on the safety of the snow pack as avalanches are common on Ben Nevis with South Easterly winds and snowfall being particularly dangerous.

Have a look at the logbooks on here. This lists when the route has been climbed by those who log their routes, so bear in mind that it is only a limited proportion of the actual ascents but still a useful indicator.

A quick look at Vanishing confirms my suspicion that statistically it could be a bit early in the year, though with the weather both nowadays and in previous  decades anything is possible.

What they said. You'll be a bit early for classic Ben ice V's and quite likely to see the hill either stripped from a New Year thaw, or buried in fresh snow from New Year blizzards.

On the other hand, once there's some snow on the mountain all it takes is a brief thaw followed by a good cold snap and ice will form quickly at that time of year especially on cascade and ice-smear type lines like the Curtain and steeper stuff on Carn Dearg buttress.

Otherwise head east to the Cairngorms for some snowed-up mixed action!

Orion Direct needs a reasonable period of build up to be reasonable, so these days I'd be surprised in early January. For ice mid-mountain can be best at this time - higher and the moisture is not liquid to condense and seep, lower is too warm.

Go with an open mind. At one time I'd say you'll get something done, whereas nowadays I'd say you'll most possibly get something done.
 

In thin conditions aim for drainage lines, or, if lean and cold go for turfy routes.

The best conditions for ice on the Ben tends to be late Feb onwards. Usually even March into early April. There will be mixed stuff getting done in Jan and some of the classic gullies should be good.. You will also be able to climb the classic ridges. Very unlikely Orion face will get climbed in January I am afraid. 

if you are open minded and prepared to climb some mixed stuff you will definitely have more options . 
 

Whilst it’s possible, if I have clients who are dead set on climbing ice I tell them to book for the end of Feb onwards for the best chance of getting something good.

Nearly all of my classic ice routes on Ben Nevis have been done in March with the exception of Point 5 which I climbed in the second week of February. 

Like others have said its probably a bit too early for the pure snow / ice routes to be in condition but its possible for some mixed action.

I would recommend looking at the routes in the Cairngorms and the mixed climbing as a second option for their visit 👍

Thanks to you and all the others. Open minded for sure and psyched either way. Really appreciate it. 
 

matt

Just in case you haven't seen it I find the avalanche conditions blogs one of the best places to get up to date conditions info (outside various Facebook groups).

https://lochaberblog.sais.gov.uk/

Currently looking sub optimal in terms of build up....

And the Cic hut has a webcam pointing at the Orion face. (You’ll have to trust me on that based on todays images)

https://holfuy.com/en/weather/1746

The classic ridges always doable -