Aonach eagach conditions

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 ERB 31 Jan 2020

Thinking of a trip up on Sunday,

 If anyone’s in the area with up to date conditions would be appreciated.

 whwpaul 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

It's always worth looking at the sais Glencoe blog - useful pictures too

pasbury 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

The winter conditions threads don't seem to have been very active this year. I can't even see any Scottish ones. Does that mean there haven't been any conditions this year?

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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to pasbury:

I would just like to add if top 40 posters could stick to off belay as I’m trying to get upto date conditions not start a general conversation about anything.

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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to whwpaul:

thanx will take a look 

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Gone for good 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

> I would just like to add if top 40 posters could stick to off belay as I’m trying to get upto date conditions not start a general conversation about anything.

To be fair, a good few of the Top 40 posters will be the best placed people to give you advice about current conditions. There are a few guides and plenty of active climbers who post frequently in the off belay section.

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 Ross McGibbon 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

I'm not a top 40 poster but your question suggests some advice from the regulars would be helpful. eg places to go to check conditions etc, as I suspect you don't know them. You would have seen, if you had followed SAIS, MWIS, and the conditions report that the conditions have been crap this season. The only news of full winter conditions has come from the Daily Mirror

I'd take the advice if I were you.

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Removed User 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

Also the Glencoe ski centre cams and the live traffic cams on Traffic Scotland which currently show the Coe as mainly brown and pretty minging.

 Jamie Hageman 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Removed User:

Pretty mining it is indeed.  Currently 11 degrees and raining here in Fort William.  That brilliant dump of snow a few days ago will have been washed away on the Aonach Eagach.  Rain at all levels at the mo.  I expect Sunday to be wet and boggy, with fresh snow coming down to 700m.  It'll be interesting to see what has survived on the higher mountains here on the West.  Saturday looks like it could be a nice day for getting out, but maybe not climbing.

OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Ross McGibbon:

Your suspicions are way off the mark as I've checked Met office , MWIS and the SAIS what I posted for is upto date  conditions for the ridge, not for the post to be hijacked to boost some armchair mountaineers ego on UKC.

So what advice are you referring to ?

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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Jamie Hageman:

Thanx  was thinking it would be just hoping for the best.

OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Removed User:

Thanx Yes not looking good 

OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Gone for good:

Sorry I disagree

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 Ross McGibbon 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

You asked people not to comment, yet your question can be answered, thanks to the internet, by me, 400 miles from Glencoe. It is warm and raining and greeny-brown.

You seem a little spikey for someone who has been offered help. I'd like to think a freeze will come and cheer you (and the rest of us up) but it doesn't seem likely.

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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Ross McGibbon:

What positive contribution have you made to this post apart from sarcasm, if I want sarcasm or useless drivel ill post in off belay.

Post edited at 15:09
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 Ross McGibbon 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

Conditions are warm and rainy. Take a walking axe and light crampons just in case but they'll be very likely to stay in your bag.

 Graeme G 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Jamie Hageman:

> Saturday looks like it could be a nice day for getting out, but maybe not climbing.

MWIS suggests Saturday looks pretty wild, particularly AM. No?

 Jamie Hageman 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Graeme G:

Yes, but arvo looks good (that's when I'm heading out!)

 ianstevens 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Ross McGibbon:

> You asked people not to comment, yet your question can be answered, thanks to the internet, by me, 400 miles from Glencoe. It is warm and raining and greeny-brown.

> You seem a little spikey for someone who has been offered help. I'd like to think a freeze will come and cheer you (and the rest of us up) but it doesn't seem likely.

Like all these people who ask about conditions, they just want too be told what conditions are rather than learn how to find them out for themselves. Annoying really.

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 moppy 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

What a strange response.  Asking about conditions is exactly that - people who've been out who know what's going on.  What's wrong with that?!  Your reply is snooty and arrogant.

There's been a big dump of snow, followed by a big thaw.  Not looking great for technical climbing, but the gullies should still have plenty in when it gets a bit cooler again.  Aonach Eagach will not have a lot of older stuff on, but by Sunday could have a fresh dusting.

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 ianstevens 31 Jan 2020
In reply to moppy:

I live in Newcastle, and was thinking about heading up to Glencoe this weekend. I looked at various weather forecasts, the snow report, and the webcams and decided against it. It's not difficult to look at what's going on if you want to go somewhere. The weather has been so changeable this season on the ground reports from the previous day are almost meaningless. I do agree that in less changeable weather, on the ground reports are incredibly helpful.

The issue I have is that here and on wider social media, people can't be bothered to think and/or look at these resources for themselves. They just want someone who has done the legwork to tell them what they should do.

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Le Sapeur 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

Wow, you're a touchy one. I drove through Glen Coe today and was about to give my tuppence worth until I read the whole thread. 

Good luck with the anger management.

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pasbury 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

Oh pardon me. As a top 40 poster I will use all my authority to say don't be such a touchy tw*t.

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 Suncream 31 Jan 2020

I'm always impressed how quickly UKC threads can turn angry. Would everyone reply with the same tone if you were talking face-to-face?

For what it's worth, here are all the websites I check if I'm considering a trip to Glencoe/Lochaber as I procrastinate in the office:

1) obviously weather forecasts. MWIS and the met office area forecasts, as well as the met office forecasts for individual summits. The met office mountain area forecasts do a useful temperature profile with height for the next day, though of course take these with a pinch of salt

https://www.mwis.org.uk/forecasts/scottish/west-highlands

https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/specialist-forecasts/mountain/southwes...

Assuming I think the weather will be acceptable, I move to checking current ground conditions:

2) ski webcams. The ski 'resorts' nearby both have several webcams at different heights. Be sure to check the timestamps on the images because often some of the cameras are offline and can give you false hope

http://www.winterhighland.info/cams/nevisrange/

http://www.winterhighland.info/cams/glencoe/

3) CIC hut cams and weather station. This is a super useful resource if you wmhavent come across it. It's worth pointing out that usually the conditions are pretty similar in Lochaber and Glencoe.

https://www.smc.org.uk/cicwebcam/cic_weather

4) SAIS ground reports. The daily text reports of the assessors are at the bottom of the avalanche forecast pages

https://www.sais.gov.uk/glencoe/

https://www.sais.gov.uk/lochaber/

The blogs often have photos of the snow cover in relevant places and sometimes useful additional comments

http://glencoeblog.sais.gov.uk/

http://lochaberblog.sais.gov.uk/

5) Facebook reports. People share information on the "Ground conditions in UK mountain areas" Facebook group, including guides working in the area. There's also a CIC group which has similar content, and a "Scottish winter climbing conditions" group which I never get accepted into every time I try to join.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/345833125602252/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/382413241933296/

OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Suncream:

Thanx jezz for the info most links you mentioned I have already checked I was hoping to get updated info off some one who been out on the hills today like Kirkhope mountaineering today who’s just posted on Facebook Ground conditions in the uk which may have just changed my mind from what I had decided . 

Post edited at 19:58
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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to pasbury:

And what authority is that ?  I was asking for specific information not a generalisation which opens the post up to top 40 posters to hijack to boost their position.

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OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

What makes you think I haven't done the leg work? Or have you added that to make yourself look superior, if asking for up to date conditions is another tool in the box why not use it to help make your decision,  what people are getting upset about is my directness of discouraging top 40 posters from spoiling a post with the sole intention of getting to the top of the  list.

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In reply to ERB:

Drove through Glencoe at 20:30 tonight. 

8*C all through the pass and torrential rain. 

OP ERB 31 Jan 2020
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanx Ron 

must admit it’s not looking promising for Sunday 

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 John Ww 31 Jan 2020

In reply to 

if I want sarcasm or useless drivel ill post in off belay.

Off you go then, don't let the door hit you on the back of the head on the way out.

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pasbury 31 Jan 2020
In reply to ERB:

I was being sarcastic. Anyway enjoy your walk.

This forum can be very informative indeed but it isn't your personal bitch. Get to know it and you'll realise that topics often go to unexpected places where you might learn something.

Peace.

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 Jim Lancs 01 Feb 2020
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

> Drove through Glencoe at 20:30 tonight. 

> 8*C all through the pass and torrential rain. 

I think I must have been 30 minutes ahead of you heading south. You forgot to mention the wind! Crossing Rannoch Moor was some of the windiest, wettest, but sadly mildest January weather I've known for a long while.

 DaveHK 01 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

Just seen your attempt to broaden your 'I hate UKC' rant out to some of the FB conditions groups. You really are quite angry about this aren't you?

Post edited at 20:34
 Wesley Orvis 01 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB: Wow nothings changed on here then. A simple question leads to so much bull shit. The op had already done all the research and wanted to know if anyone had been up there that day or passed underneath and saw the ridge, it’s  not like the ridge needs bomber conditions. Simple question, any snow left on the AE after the thaw? An easy answer would have been no stripped mate. For god sake what a bunch of cretins  

Post edited at 22:37
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 DaveHK 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

> For god sake what a bunch of cretins  

You can be a part of the problem or a part of the solution. That sort of language puts you on the problem side which is a shame as your contributions on the FB groups I'm a member of seem pretty positive.

Post edited at 06:57
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 Wesley Orvis 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DaveHK:cheers Dave fair point. Me and the op were discussing a quick 24 hour blast up to do the AE. We both did the usual checks as we do daily anyways as for most winter climbers you don’t just check the day before you go, you need to know the run up to. Farron said the words “I’ll put a post on ukc someone will have up to date conditions on there” I did for a split second think of saying don’t bother mate but I didn’t and hear we are. It’s a shame as was once the only place for this kind of info. Why is it such an insult to people on here nowadays to ask for a conditions report?  He was up there the weekend previously and had seen on the forecast there was a big thaw, the thaw was considerable and stripped the ridge, we knew other routes would not be in condition but wasn’t too bothered about proper climbing conditions just wanted to know if any snow remained on the ridge and how much. The ridge can be done in any conditions. The answer was none and anyone driving past could have just said that. Not sure why he was made out to be lazy and incompetent by asking a final question on here before we set off.

Post edited at 11:36
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 planetmarshall 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

> Wow nothings changed on here then. A simple question leads to so much bull shit. 

Perhaps if in his second post the OP had been more polite and not attempted to dictate how people should and should not respond to his post, they might not have gotten such a sarcastic response. Maybe have a look back through the thread, and reconsider who it was who was being rude.

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 DaveHK 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

It seems pretty clear to me that the OP triggered this themselves. Nobody said anything untoward until he came on with his comment about top 40 posters which naturally got folks backs up a bit. Despite that most people still responded pretty reasonably. He then got well tore in on this thread, started a ranty thread about the forum and then had a rant on FB about it when that got pulled. Total over reaction and all stemming from his comments not those of other users.

I think this thread actually shows UKC in a pretty good light and I'm surprised you can't see that.

Post edited at 11:40
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 henwardian 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

I'm in Skye rather than Glen Coe but conditions are likely not so different because they are both on the West of the country and near-ish the coast. Here at 1000m, it's barely freezing. The little snow there is turns to heavy sugary/melting snow at about 900m and there is basically no ice in evidence - water is dribbling freely over exposed rock surfaces at any height without freezing into ice.

 Wesley Orvis 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DaveHK: ok having not seen the other post and only seeing this one it does seem like he was been a little defensive before any negatives replies. But sometimes past experiences on here can make people’s post seem rude but they just can’t be bothered with all the negativity that comes with theses posts a lot of the time. Hence why I was after the same info but didn’t post on here. I think this site is amazing for information on routes in summer and winter and getting help from pros and very experienced people but is let down by the pack mentality of the regular posters. One sticks the boot in and the rest follow suit. Not sure his competence needed to be questioned for asking the question. I do agree he didn’t help by singling our the top 40 posters. He is a very experienced climber of over 25 years and I know he checks the weather and every other source and more mentioned above. Can’t we all just be nice as we are on face book groups?

Post edited at 11:50
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 DaveHK 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

People aren't nice on those FB groups there are often posts that are way nastier than anything I see on here, they are just very heavily moderated to remove that, your pal's ranting post being a good example. Very few posts need to be deleted on here as for the most part people play nice. 

As for the asking advice thing, it's really difficult as generally nobody knows anybody on here so a straightforward reply isn't always appropriate. You need to accept that you might not get the reply you wanted. I think that's a plus point but it seems to really annoy some people as they interpret it as a personal attack on their experience or abilities.

Post edited at 12:08
OP ERB 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DaveHK

Unfortunatly  we have a different view on top 40 posters you embrace it and enjoy posting with in it, on the other hand I see as a hindrance when posting for conditions especially when they generalise and in my opinion see it as a competition to hold top spot, any forum is fair competition.

Like Wes said we were in two minds weather to post on hear at all but thought I’d give it a chance I honestly wish I hadn’t because of of the top 40 poster problem as I see it.

Posters who posted relevant conditions in this post I thanked and found it useful but to get that info you have to endure the top 40 posters.

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 planetmarshall 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

> In reply to DaveHK

> Unfortunatly  we have a different view on top 40 posters you embrace it and enjoy posting with in it, on the other hand I see as a hindrance when posting for conditions especially when they generalise and in my opinion see it as a competition to hold top spot, any forum is fair competition.

Is it really that much of a hindrance? Just scroll past any response you see as irrelevant. As for the "top 40" thing, I seriously doubt any of them care one jot about their position, or are even aware that they're in it.

Post edited at 12:15
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 Wesley Orvis 02 Feb 2020
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Is it really that much of a hindrance? Just scroll past any response you see as irrelevant. As for the "top 40" thing, I seriously doubt any of them care one jot about their position, or are even aware that they're in it.

I guess it’s a difference of opinion as to why people are tw*ts when behind a keyboard and not in the flesh, Farron feels it’s to get a higher rating with the top posters, I thinks it’s because of the anonymity ukc gives people. A few seasons ago (probably around 2011) I had a guy on here constantly emailing me for a fight after a difference of opinion on here, he was arranging places to meet in car parks in Glencoe and I never got back to him, although his abuse was constant on here and via email. A few seasons later I was belaying next to him on Good Friday Climb on the Ben. I had a chat with him and mentioned who I was as I recognised him but he didn’t me. He was shocked I had brought it up and was very apologetic when face to face. He was a really nice guy and we got on, I guess the anonymity of ukc is the reason and people say things they wouldn’t say to your face. It brings out a nasty side of normally decent people. I have had very little abuse on social media whatsoever, my experience on Facebook especially, has been great. Although I have seen some negative bullying posts on social media I think as you have a name and a profile pic it reduces this kind of thing significantly. That’s just my experience of fb vs ukc  

Post edited at 12:33
 DaveHK 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

> In reply to DaveHK

> Unfortunatly  we have a different view on top 40 posters you embrace it and enjoy posting with in it, on the other hand I see as a hindrance when posting for conditions especially when they generalise and in my opinion see it as a competition to hold top spot, any forum is fair competition.

I can tell you for a fact that I've never once posted on here to try and bump my way up the posters list and I'd be surprised if anyone else does.

That said, this thread and a rainy Sunday should should see me rocketing up the rankings...

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 planetmarshall 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

> A few seasons ago (probably around 2011) I had a guy on here constantly emailing me for a fight after a difference of opinion on here, he was arranging places to meet in car parks in Glencoe and I never got back to him, although his abuse was constant on here and via email. 

That's appalling, though of course I am aware of such things happening. It's perhaps less surprising to me that he was less offensive in the flesh, though of course you would have no way of knowing that that would be the case.

 TobyA 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

I'm sometimes in the top 40 posters list, I don't really recognise what you're saying. I didn't answer this question, but sometime answer similar ones. You use a different name here to your name on Facebook so I had no idea you were the same person as I've regularly seen on the Ground Conditions page in FB. When I see a slightly vague question like this, I sometimes ask people if they know about the various relevant Facebook groups as a lot of professionals who are out daily post there. If the question was about Snowdonia or the Lakes I'd suggest using the BMC monitoring sites or the National Park Conditions reports. Some people genuinely DON'T know that stuff exists, and their first place of call is here. I think one of the guides had put a post up with pictures in it of the AE ridge just the other day, in either Scottish Winter Conditions or Ground Conditions - one of the FB groups anyway. Your OP sounded like you hadn't seen that, so it doesn't seem very unreasonable for people to ask if you knew about the mountain specific forecasts or the FB groups.

OP ERB 02 Feb 2020
In reply to TobyA:

I saw the FB post you’ve referred to, think it was kirkhope mountaineering which came in late Friday afternoon which was more positive than I was expecting I usually check Alan Hailwoods posts and west coast mountain guides, Jamie Bankhead is another good one to check.

Where we disagree is top 40 poster I think it’s spoilt the forums, I admit the offbely post was placed on my part as a wind up, but I don’t agree with off belay on a climbing forum, at this rate I’m going to be in the top 40 myself

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pasbury 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

I think ERB might find himself in the top 40 posters at this rate - it doesn't take that many posts!

pasbury 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

As it was my post making a general point on winter conditions threads on here that seems to have triggered you, here's my tuppence worth.

Guilty to not giving any specific response to your question, unfortunately I haven't been in Glencoe for many years. I have found the winter conditions threads on here too be very useful in the past, there was a guide who used to do a Skye one that was brilliant. Maybe Facebook is the place for that now but I don't use it and I think it would be a shame if that became the only place to get info.

Your chip on the shoulder about top 40 posters is funny. I couldn't give a toss about it. Play nice and you get a wealth of knowledge from UKC.

 TobyA 02 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

>  but I don’t agree with off belay on a climbing forum, 

Just turn it off. I haven't looked at "the down the pub forum" in a decade. I also don't have the indoor climbing forum turned on in my choices either. Possibly some others that I've forgotten even exist!

You mention Jamie B, I first met him on a UKC winter picnic the best part of 20 years ago and we've climbed together since and it he was kind enough to put me up once before we went climbing. Jamie is one of the great people I wouldn't know if it wasn't for UKC. 

I do agree that up to date conditions reporting has moved almost entirely to Facebook it seems (don't know about Twitter as I sort of stopped using it about 5 years ago). UKC used to be the best place for conditions reports, as well as perusing all the instructors blogs, but actually it's much easier now it seems just following a few groups in FB you can get almost daily reports - at least for the most popular areas. But the winter conditions page here is very good at showing what has been climbed, and compared to stuff I read on many Facebook groups - the quality of advice, be that on gear, venues or on specific routes is still WAY higher here. 

 Simon Caldwell 03 Feb 2020
In reply to Wesley Orvis:

> the op had already done all the research

which we were to know how exactly? Most people asking for conditions questions seem not to know that MWIS, SAIS, etc exist. If the original post had said "I've checked all the usual sites but would appreciate any additional on-the-ground information" then this thread would be very different. As it would if the first follow-up from the OP weren't being to abuse those who'd replied (and indeed those who hadn't but might be thinking of doing so).

 morpcat 04 Feb 2020
In reply to ERB:

So, did you go? Any conditions info you could update us on?

 Wesley Orvis 04 Feb 2020
In reply to morpcat:

Instead we decided our best course of action was to argue on ukc all weekend. It’s at least got something to do with winter conditions and better than shopping with the mrs which was my alternative choice. Let’s hope it comes good in the next few weekends and eradicates the cabin fever that feeds these negative threads.   

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