UKH

This was Tuesday on the Ciste Face of the Great Tower, to the right of Pinnacle Buttress proper but left of Glover's Chimney:

http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=6798

It's a cracking route. Someone repeat it when the weather's right! But the gear's a bit thought-provoking, so take plenty of bulldogs, peckers, snargs, warthogs, groundhooks, and pegs. (You'll find an in-situ peg on the last pitch. Despite 15 minutes of wangling I couldn't lift it, and it was going dark by then, so in the end I buggered off without it.) 

Brilliant!
Looks like a great line.

Back in the mid 80's 2 friends and I climbed a pitch which looks like it's in a similar area to the top pitch of your route. We'd come up Vanishing Gully, then along Tower Ridge.  We found the E Traverse really busy. Dave Rundall led us round to the West face and led a pitch up the headwall to the top of the G. Tower. A very bold pitch up a corner to stand on a small block.   Carefully hook into the lower edge of a sheet of thin ice covering a hanging slab/wall circa 75-80 deg, so quite steep. A couple of pull-ups & lock-offs gained enough height to get a crampon point into the smear of ice.  A long and mostly unprotected run-out to the top of the GT. Back at that point I'd never climbed a VI, but it was most definitely harder than any of the V's I'd done.
(I can't recall exactly who the 3rd person was, Possibly Roger Whetton. All Mynydd CC anyway)

Edit: Just been informed by Roger Whetton that the party was Dave Rundall, me & Roger Whetton 27 Feb 1984.

Thanks, interesting! You might like to email Simon Richardson with that, or add it as a comment on that page on SW--he'll know better than I would whether you've climbed an original variant, especially if you can draw a line on a picture for where you think your line went.

Not likely. Not me. Sounds like there isn't any proper gear (like a good Moac). Apart from one peg which you were kind enough to leave.

we found wire, sling, and friend placements too. But it did take cunning. Cunning and digging.

I gave myself a definite Blue Peter Badge at one point--Simon wanted me to move the belay up across 10m of easy ground, but he had the rack of course. So all I had to build the new belay was the components of the old belay, one pecker and one small nut. I still managed to find somewhere pretty bomber for both of them within 2 minutes. So either I'm good at this, or the gear wasn't *that* bad

That photo's almost enough to make me want to go winter climbing. 

Funny, isn't it? We were walking up to the route and Simon paused for a moment and snapped that and... it's only when you look at it afterwards that you fully take in what a humungous face it is. 

I never get the full adrenalin factor when I'm approaching a route or on it. On it, I'm not thinking about how spectacular it is, I'm thinking about how we're going to climb it. And approaching it, I'm out of breath

You must be climbing well within your grade. I find I often get the 'full adrenalin factor' on a route!

I'm no use at English but sometimes I struggle with blogs.

'another series of grooves, and these were the focus of Sophie Grace Chappell and I on March 20.'