UKH

Hi everyone, I am currently trying out a new pair of mountaineering boots in sizes 11 and 11.5 UK.

Both feel great, the 11s are only slightly more snug. When I do the toe kick fit test, I feel a bit more contact with the 11s compared to the 11.5, but only when I kick super hard.

Initially I was set on keeping the 11s as they are a few grams lighter, until I learnt about foot swell. With the long routes I have in mind, now I think the larger size may be suitable.  

Is foot swell something that everyone experiences and should I factor it into the fit? Any other tips for picking the correct shoe would be greatly appreciated! Which size would you recommend going for?

Thank you in advance

I’m no boot expert but I’ve bought plenty and done a fair bit of winter stuff…

do your feet normally swell on a long walk? Or on a Scottish winter route? How old are you etc?

my gut feel wold be go the larger size…

Im 59 and my feet swell now which they never used to hence the age query.

I have not done prolonged crampon walking so not sure how my feet will react to this. First time I’ll be with crampon compatible boots- my other hiking shoes are roomy so I haven’t suffered from over tightness during long walks. 
I am in my early twenties.

For boots, I think comfort is more important than weight, especially if only a few grams.  As well as foot swell you should consider need for thicker socks in colder weather. 

I have short wide feet and, from my own experience, it is better to go for a slightly longer size that I can pad out with insoles if needed.

No

Yes

You have to take all situations into account; on a long steep rocky descent in the blazing sun after several hours of ascent for instance your feet are definitely going to be bigger than they were early in the morning, and if your toes are making contact on every step it´s going to be agony. Go for the bigger ones (if these are already making a bit of contact on the kick test, then maybe even consider 12s).

Thanks! The larger ones feel like they have about 1-2mm more heel lift which I don't think is much but will most likely go for them!

Do insoles help reduce minimal heel lift?

They must not be too tight. They should be comfortable/ quite slack with just one pair of good loopstitch socks, and you need to be able to tighten them up a lot for a hard rock pitch and when wearing crampons. They should always be quite tight round the ankles and quite slack round the toes. Hard to say more than that. It’s quite difficult to get them just right.

Sorry, I have no idea at all about heel lift, maybe there’ll be something about it on the web?

Here's your decision making algorithm for this one....

Do your feet swell?

No -> do not factor in swelling for 4000m

Yes -> do factor in swelling for 4000m

If in doubt between two sizes, size slightly up rather than slightly down

I take a U.K. 10. Years ago I bought a pair of Scarpa Cumbre’s in a 46 and every Alps trip I did with them I lost a toenail. I concluded I needed a 47 just after the Cumbre’s were withdrawn from sale- shame because they were great boots every other way. My blue-and-silver synthetic Scarpas don’t mess up my toenails but they’re not as good in any other way.
I think the stiffness of the boot is a factor in determining the size you need,