Historic Scottish Climbing Grades

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 Andy Clarke 07 Apr 2024

Forum users with literary interests may remember that I recently drew on the help of the hive mind to compile a bibliography of modern climbing-themed novels, published since 1979. I'm now in the process of writing mini-reviews of them and I'm part-way through Death on Site (1989) by Janet Neel*. This is proving to be an entertaining and well-written formula whodunnit with climbing used to provide an exciting and unusual context. However, there are what seem strange and perfectly avoidable errors, one of which is referring to a relatively easy climb as being graded "Medium to Severe". I've never come across this grade and it seemed so daft to invent it that I began to wonder if it was ever used in Scotland back in the day. Can anyone shed any light? If not, I'll stay with daft and knock a star or two off for lazy research.

*the Labour peer Baroness Cohen of Pimlico

 Si Witcher 08 Apr 2024
In reply to Andy Clarke:

It sounds like a poorly remembered grade range of “Moderate to Severe”. Medium has never been used. Is the book title really Death On Site as opposed to Death On Sight?

OP Andy Clarke 08 Apr 2024
In reply to Si Witcher:

Yes, I thought something similar myself, but I wanted to check there wasn't something arcane in Scotland (where the climbing takes place) that I hadn't come across. And yes, the title is a bit of wordplay, since the climbers also work as scaffolders on a construction site. It's actually quite well written in general, but you have to ignore a couple of silly technical errors where the climbing is concerned.

Post edited at 20:10
 JimR 08 Apr 2024
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Scottish guidebooks had a graded list at the back. But can only recall Severe as the severe grade. Lakes used to have mild severe as one of the grades

Post edited at 22:10

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