Alpine Ice book easy routes

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 George1924 29 Nov 2023

Some friends and I are planning a trip to the Alps to do some ice climbing in late Jan/early feb next year but aren't yet sure where would be the best place to go. We all have some experience of ice climbing but would need to go somewhere with a relatively high number of easy routes to begin with (WI3 and below). I've tried to find a list of routes from the Alpine Ice guidebooks Mario Sertori to see if there would be enough in there to keep us entertained, but I've not been successful.

Does anyone have a list of the climbs in the book or know if there are enough easy routes?

 olddirtydoggy 30 Nov 2023
In reply to George1924:

Rjukan Norway. It's cragging on pure ice with very little walkin. Assuming that's what you're after. Not much jagged mountain stuff.

Edit: checked your logbook, you've already been!

This might help: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/winter_climbing/recommendations_for_ice_c...?

Post edited at 09:15
 pec 30 Nov 2023
In reply to George1924:

Alpe d'huez could be what you're after.

I've not climbed there myself (just skied) but I think its the venue with the most easy stuff in the Alps.

You can access many of the climbs on skis if you want and if its horribly mild (who knows what the weather will do these days?), you can probably still ski.

The guidebook is probably called something involving "cascades" and "Oisans" in the title.

 McHeath 30 Nov 2023
In reply to George1924:

I don’t know your book, but Längenfeld in the Ötztal/Austria is an excellent centre; plenty to do, good buses/infrastructure.

https://www.oetztal.com/winter/the-full-winter-variety-in-oetztal/ice-climb...

Pics + topos here (click on “topo anzeigen” next to the route names; SL = Seillängen/nr. of pitches): 

https://ice.oetztalclimbing.com/uebersicht.html

Post edited at 13:27
 smithaldo 30 Nov 2023
In reply to George1924:

celliac in the ecrins would be an option. how long you planning on going for??? theres three or four days worth there (especially if you feel comfy enough after the easier ones to jump on formes du chaos which is a proper classic) 

the holiday on ice ones (left and right) are pretty easy for 3 and usually stepped out.

theres also a great gite with dorm style accomodation and cooking facilities right in the town.

You can also combine it with other places in the ecrins if you want more time out there. Fly to turin and hire a car best for access. Not much longer to drive to than cogne. (which is another reliable option)

 Eduardo2010 30 Nov 2023
In reply to smithaldo:

Switzerland? 

Adelboden has a series of ice falls that are 'created' by the local guide organisation by dripping water down a shaded cliff. They are massive and steep, fair bit of variety. My understanding is the conditions are reliably climbable. The location feels natural and is a 2min walk in from the lift. Dedicated anchors at the top allow you to top rope if you want to dial in the technique. You need to pay a notional fee to use it (think you pay Adelboden Alpine School?).  We used a guide from the school which was ideal as we didn't (still don't arguably) know what we are doing, but you can go independently. 

Various options from there: Kandersteg, bits around Wengen if conditions allow. There is a guidebook called something like hot ice? Locals don't spray about conditions much so you'll find out more from chatting in the local climbing shop.

If conditions / travel allow, I'll head back to Adelboden this year and probably try a day at Kandersteg with a guide. So good enough to repeat. 

 Eduardo2010 30 Nov 2023
In reply to Eduardo2010:

I've stuck a couple of photos on my profile to give a sense of the Adelboden crag. We hit the jackpot when we were there - the guide we used had a friend that needed to take some outdoor photos to complete his photography diploma, asked if he could come along. So essentially we had a dedicated expedition photographer for the day, which was awesome. 

OP George1924 30 Nov 2023
In reply to smithaldo:

Some of us are planning on doing 1 week, some 2 weeks so your suggestion of going between Cogne and the Ecrin might work well. We are a little apprehensive about Cogne though. My understanding was that Cogne suffers from thaws so if you get the wrong time of year then nothing is in.

OP George1924 30 Nov 2023
In reply to Eduardo2010:

Never heard of this place so I'll definitely add it to the list of considerations. Thanks for letting me know!

 LakesWinter 30 Nov 2023
In reply to George1924:

Anywhere can get a thaw - Cogne is pretty reliable although as most lines are in a gully, a heavy snowfall could stop play for a bit until it stabilises


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