UKH

I am a small woman who often climbs with heavier partners. I am looking for a second hand Edelrid ohm. Does anyone have one that they are not using and want to sell? Thanks, Nikki

I was on the hunt for a Ohm for many months before one can up for sale at a reasonable price.

I note that there's an Ohm II in the works (it was shown in one of the new gear videos within the past month or so), so I expect a small influx of used Ohms to come when that's released.

As a comment, mine was in great condition but for my own piece of mind I replaced the maillon (regular 8mm size) because it was a bit dirty, and replaced the dogbone (I used a DMM ~ 10cm) because it wasn't dated, and which had the advantage of also making it much easier to identify right versus wrong way round on the wall.

If the Ohm II comes out sooner rather than later, mine will be up for sale, but until then, good luck in your search.

Might have a lead for you, have asked my buddy if he still has his and selling...

They are definitely worth it though, really effective bits of kit and allows my 14 year old nephew to belay me who is 40kg lighter than I am - he holds me no problem at all.

My God, Mike; is he that heavy?

<Ducks>

Haha, it's quite unbelievable but he's heavier than he looks...

Asked him and he's already sold it.

They are absolutely amazing devices (though slightly faffy to use on top-rope).  With a thick enough rope (as most centre ropes are) they balance a climber double the weight of the belayer remarkably well.

Thanks for asking Mike

Thanks Dave

Wouldn’t you just anchor the belayer if you’re top roping?

My 10 year old daughter belays me using an ohm and I anchor her to a tree to belay as well.

I can belay a climber twice my weight or more without one but it requires a lot of sure-footedness and experience. With an ohm the effective weight difference is much reduced though maybe not eliminated completely if the disparity is large, so anchoring to belay will still take away much of the uncertainty of what happens when holding a fall.

The other factor is lowering. With a grigri it's far from trivial to lower someone who is very heavy, as under a high load the device is very sensitive to slight differences in the amount you pull on the lever. So much so that I've known people use extra krabs and methods to better control the dead end of the rope while lowering. The ohm effectively removes the need for any of that as it effectively reduces the apparent weight of the climber being lowered.

If there are ground anchors, yes, but most walls don't have ground anchors.  With a very large weight difference the Ohm is better than trying to amass several weight bags and also makes the actual catch easier.

Thanks for that, very informative and interesting answer, particularly as I’m hoping one day I’ll be climbing with my own daughter (she’s only two, so we’re a fair way away from that yet!). Hadn’t considered that they would be used alongside anchoring when the weight difference is huge but that makes total sense.

Every wall I’ve ever been to has them… The Reach, The Castle, Westway all do…. must be a London thing

Generally it seems to me that older walls are more likely to have them, and the London walls are more established generally than elsewhere.

I've got one Nikki. I'll email u.

It's the original type. Still got box. Good con.

£60 plus postage any good. Live in West Yorks if collecting?

I also use mine when being belayed by novices in combination with an assisted lock device as you're more or less guaranteed a catch and it allows them to get used to belaying in a more realistic way with less jeopardy.