UKH

I'm looking to purchase some very lightweight crampons for use on snow to access alpine rock climbs ( mainly in Europe ). The sort of routes where you have to take snow gear to reach the route, descend ( no straightforward abseil back to kit ), possible snow sections between rock sections. Hopefully able to use on both boots and approach shoes.

    So far I've been looking at the alloy Grivel Airtech Light, Camp XCL and B.D. Neve. So, tapping into the years of experience so willingly shared on UKC, does anyone have any experience with these or recommendations?

In reply to Mark Haward:

I've a pair of the Airtech lights and was not impressed - after 1 day's use they were missing 2 x points on the base with another bent inwards by 90 degrees.  They might be ok if you're certain you'll never be in contact with rock with them but personally I wouldn't buy them again.  Totally unsuitable for any type of mixed / rocky ground or if you need to use stomper style snow anchors etc.

I carry them when touring now as would only be using them to cross ground too icy for me to ski which given my generally cowardly approach to ski conditions isn't frequent!

Cheers!

Stu

In reply to Mark Haward:

I liked the look of the Petzl Leopard as a ski touring crampon. No experience of them but they might be worth a look - they're made for exactly the scenario you describe.

In reply to Mark Haward:

The Kahtoola KTS crampons would be ideal. They'll fit on just about any footwear, including fell and approach shoes, and will withstand contact with rock, unlike many alloy crampons. Somebody was selling a pair on here in the last few days.

In reply to Mark Haward:

Whatever you model you will pick, don't go for aluminium alloy crampons such as the Airtech Lights, which are made exclusively for ski touring. You will need steel points on rock covered glaciers or snow fields in summer.

CB

In reply to Mark Haward:

A pair of running crampons should fit any running or approach shoes. They are pretty commonly used in the alps (some of the bigger ultras like the TdG have themon the mandatory kit list), and they work really well

Steve

In reply to cb294:

I think the length of points must be a big part of it - I've had these for several years now and although I don't use them loads the alloy points are all still sharp enough and pointing the right way! https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/snow+ice/crampons/beast_lite_crampons_from_...

 

In reply to StuDoig:

Cheers for your thoughts Stu. The intention is only to use them on snow, although the chances of finding some rocks are quite high.

In reply to tehmarks:

Yes, I had considered them. Very light, possibly fiddly to put on. Anti snow build up plates are also sold for them. Does anyone have any experience with these?

In reply to Guy Hurst:

Thanks Guy. I did consider them but the lack of front points could be a problem. The snow approaching rock routes and bergschrunds can be quite steep which is why I didn't put them on the list. Could do some step cutting of course... I think that's another thread!

In reply to cb294:

Thanks for the advice.

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Thanks Steve. They would be good for easy terrain but I wonder how they would perform on snowy glaciers and steeper slopes...

In reply to TobyA:

Thanks Toby, another possible option. I understand what others have said about the weakness of alloy but I am looking at for use on snow only, and certainly not for UK use.

In reply to Mark Haward:

I've used them for stuff like crossing snowfields at the base of the Chamonix Aiguilles (say at the base of the Peigne Couloir). Also I used them to cross Col de Malatra on the TdG, when it was very icy (but not really snowy) , and they were very solid.

Steve

In reply to Mark Haward:

Petzl irvis hybrid? The string connectors instead of a backbar makes up for the extra weight of the steel front points. I have a pair for touring and all though I've yet to really test them they seem pretty good.

In reply to Mark Haward: I have a pair of Grivel Airtech lights for exactly this purpose and they have been great.

 

In reply to Mark Haward:

Hi Mark, I have a set of Petzl IRVIS HYBRID, so like the Leopard - Aluminium heal but then a steal toe part but still linked by cord, I use them mainly for ski touring, haven't had them long enough to comment about wear, but you asked about being fiddly to put on, yes the first time, you need to make sure you have the fit exact and then re-fit them once they have been on a while ( you only need to do this once, I think it is to do with the cord getting wet and stretching to start with), once you have done this the first time they are fine and go on easy, really happy with mine, but not sure they would go on an approach shoe?

cheers