UKH

youtube.com/watch?v=7j0i1USM8xU&

Looked hard work. I'm surprised the climber didn't have prussiks fitted and ready?

In reply to Trangia:

Good job the conditions were perfect and they had a small army at hand.

In reply to Trangia:

This has always seemed to me the scariest part of the ascent as well as being the technical crux!

In reply to Trangia:

I got the impression from the video that he wouldn't have known what to do with them even if he had!

In reply to tingle:


and a thermos of hot coffee at the ready for the poor soul. Good luck with that summit attempt.

In reply to Dave Garnett:


It does look awkward trying to balance on ladder rungs with crampons on and wearing a pack. I'd be tempted to crawl - lower centre of gravity?

In reply to Trangia:
I know this is probably easier said than done, and I’ll probably get slated for saying it.

But there’s about 6(?) people there?
Do they need to set up a full crevasse rescue?
Or would a good rope up, and haul him out, not have sufficed?
5/6 people pulling someone up, surely would have been doable?

Probably my inexperience and not appreciating the effects of altitude showing. But just what sprung to mind watching it.

In reply to martinturner:



Have a little go at practising crevasse rescue down at a local wall/sports centre. Its quite sobering and exhausting doing this exercise at ground level where it is warm and void of objective dangers.

I have only ever had my foot fall through a snow bridge into a crevasse. At the time I smirked to my mate that my foot fell into a crevasse and he bluntly stated, well take it out then. Just practising cassavas rescue in a safe environment reinforces the desire never to get into that situation with just two people, one of whom is underground.

At altitude, I struggled to put one foot in front of the other without even having to think about doing anything excessively aerobic or physically demanding.

A good rope-up would have just been like a knife cutting through butter with the rope digging into the snow and ice.