/ Multi-Pitch Challenge Project

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Luke Reader - on 15 Nov 2017
Hi all, hope you're feeling well and still getting out climbing.

I have a great idea of a climbing challenge for myself and was wondering if people could list Multi-Pitch Climbs in North of Wales for me please?

I have looked to see if a list of multi-pitch routes already exists without having to search through every crag location, but only ones of certain grades appear.

Many thanks,
Graeme Hammond - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:
have a look at these tick lists for starters should give some great inspiration (note not all routes are multi pitch)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=821
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=702
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=165
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=732


edit: also the advanced search function here might be useful

https://www.rockfax.com/databases/expert.html?area=1037
Post edited at 19:32
Luke Reader - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Thanks pal!
Gordon Stainforth - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

Just about everything worth climbing in North Wales is multipitch. So then, just use the star recommendations.
Ron Rees Davies - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

There are thousands of multi pitch climbs in North Wales. Trying to list them all would be a massive job, without any real purpose.
Greasy Prusiks on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

There's loads of quality multi pitch in Wales so you'll probably have to narrow it down to a grade bracket.

What's your challenge if you don't mind me asking? It sounds interesting.
Luke Reader - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

For my 21st, I would like to climb 21 pitches. Im not sure if this sounds like a tough challenge or not, but its how I would like to spend the day. I think I would aim to get the climbs in the grade of VS 4c and above as then they'll count towards MIA training.
Greasy Prusiks on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

Great plan! I did 20 routes for my twentyeth and a really good time. I found it's really important to save time on the transitions, a bit of running and knowing your route will save far more time than climbing faster. Stash some water as well.

Good luck with it.
GridNorth - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

I've got a bigger challenge, 70 routes for my 70th ;-)

Al
Alex Riley on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

Tremadog could be a good bet, lots of Vs mulipitch, easy descents.
BusyLizzie on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

Hrrrm I don't think I can do 56 pitches on my 56th ... best of luck and have a great day.
Luke Reader - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Awesome! Do you know what routes you climbed?
Luke Reader - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

I will happily belay you for that! Sir and tip my hat off to you at the end
olddirtydoggy - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

There are some good ones straight off the pass between Llanberis and the visitors center. Lorraine and a few others start just off the road.
TobyA on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

> I've got a bigger challenge, 70 routes for my 70th ;-)

I did 44 routes for 44th birthday in August. But they were at Bamford so it only took me about 3 hours... 44 proper pitches would be hard, but plenty of Welsh pitches are about 30 ft so you might be ok. ;)

GridNorth - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I did 60 routes on my 60th but I stuck to Stanage and Burbage and counted descents as routes. I could probably manage 70 in that manner but for the moment I've got my sights set on 7a at 70. I know it's doable. I did a few last year but they were all downgraded to 6c+ in the new guide so it looks like I will need to try a bit harder. These days I like the warmth and security of climbing on the continent.

Al
full stottie on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

Well my dad's a policeman. I did 70 routes for my 70th, but it took a year.

Dave
Gordon Stainforth - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

In answer to those people who 'disliked' my enthusiasm for the general excellence of most climbing in North Wales, I must simply repeat what I (and several others) have said. There is just so much that any meaningful list is impossible. One example. Someone said how good 'Lorraine' is, on Dinas Mot. Well, it is, but the Nose of the Mot is so good that just about everything on it is of equal quality about every standard. The main established routes from left to right:

The Cracks (about the weakest of them all, but merits a place in ‘Classic Rock’)
Lorraine
Trauma
Direct Route
Super Direct
Zeta
Diagonal
Crosstie
Stairway to Heaven
The Link
West Rib
Western Slabs

Who is to say which is the best of that amazing bunch? Probably Super Direct, but everything else, frankly is also so good. A pitch I thought was amazing was the top pitch of Crosstie, which few seem to do or talk about.

Just about everything on the Cromlech, and the whole of Tremadoc, esp. Bwlch y Moch, is similarly amazing. Tremadoc has the best rock in Snowdonia, and thus the most technically superb climbing. Pity it's not in the Pass. The only other dolerite is on the wings of the Mot, but they're rather vegetated. Only best, like Nexus, are equal to the best at Tremadoc.

At a lower standard, just about everything on the Idwal Slabs and East Face of Tryfan is very well worth doing.

It just seems pointless to single anything out.
MischaHY - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

If you're looking to do many pitches in a day you could consider some of the sport routes in Twll Mawr. Big routes, adventurous feel and it'd be easy to pack that many pitches in at a high standard.

Not sure if this would count towards MIA though so feel free to discount it.
French Erick - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

> I've got a bigger challenge, 70 routes for my 70th ;-)

> Al

Just go for 35 E2s for a total of 70 E points...a doddle ;)
pasbury on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

Nice idea, what time of year will it be? You could do an enchainment up Idwal slabs and above, then drop down to Glyder Fach and finish off on Tryfan with Belle Vue Bastion and Munich Climb.
Bulls Crack - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to BusyLizzie:
Just split the pitches into 3 metre sections or so.
Post edited at 16:34
BusyLizzie on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Now that is a lovely idea, thank you
pasbury on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to BusyLizzie:

There is a route on the Gribin Facet that was split into 5 pitches in Tom Leppert’s guidebook. Total length about 45 metres! I wish I could be more precise but I lost the bloody guidebook.
The Ivanator - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to pasbury:

There's also Five Pitch Route (S 4b) nearby on Clogwyn Bochlwyd at 34m, a few of those sort of routes and racking up enough pitches for my next birthday (48) might come into reach!
pasbury on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

That might have been the one I was thinking of.

I think it’s meant to be sociable - sort of the opposite to the ‘long, lonely lead’.
Luke Brooks - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Just about everything worth climbing in North Wales is multipitch.

My dislike was in disagreement with this statement. There are hundreds of mega classic, non-multi-pitch routes in North Wales, even if you don't include sport or bouldering.
Gordon Stainforth - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Brooks:

I don't remember many. There's that good little crag near Gogarth and Bochlwyd Buttress and ... er ... Cenotaph Corner ...

When I used to climb there a lot in my youth I don't ever remember thinking of the number of pitches. Basically, a north wales day was a multi-pitch day: maybe a route or two with just one pitch, most 2-3 pitches, some many more. It didn't really matter; we just climbed the pitches as alternate leads, i.e. whoever seconded the last pitch of a route led the first pitch of the next etc.
Post edited at 22:18
Luke Reader - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to pasbury:

Around end of March, maybe start of April if weather is good and mine & my climbing partners plans work out well.
Luke Reader - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:

I feel like that would be cheating, but only by a little bit. Also probably harder to make a belay anchor every 3 meters...
Luke Reader - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

You would recommend Tremadoc over Dinas Mot & Idwal

PS: I don't want to get you in trouble with other UKC members if you voice which one your prefer :/
Gordon Stainforth - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

> You would recommend Tremadoc over Dinas Mot & Idwal

> PS: I don't want to get you in trouble with other UKC members if you voice which one your prefer :/

No, I wouldn't – because when I was young, living in S/E England, I went to N Wales for the full mountain experience. Tremadoc was always the superb fall-back for wet weather days.
Greenbanks - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:

> I've got a bigger challenge, 70 routes for my 70th ;-)

> Al

The way things are looking I'll be top-roping 70....
Fatclimber - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to BusyLizzie:

I can see a challenge coming on Lizzie!
BusyLizzie on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to Fatclimber:

Hmmm ... i like your enthusiasm Steve, but 56 is a big number. Perhaps we should find a more manageable challenge!
Rock to Fakey - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to GridNorth:
> I've got my sights set on 7a at 70.

If u r still Cheltenham based head for Brean Down + try Chepito or Pearl Harbour, perhaps both very do-able 7a's, although Chepito is perhaps 6c + if u have a decent reach, can be warm there in winter too . Pretty good holds all the way, possible halfway shake out on both, quality uk routes + venue.
Post edited at 21:41
Martin Wing - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:

One of the best days I have had was doing the Snowdon Horseshoe with a climb on each mountain as you go.

We did
Reade's Route (S)

Rectory Chimneys (VD)

Great Slab (VS 4c)

Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D)

That's got to be 21 pitches if you go by the guidebook.

Although I recommend you don't if you want to finish it!
Luke Reader - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

After browsing through Tremadoc's crag selection I think I'm settiling with Craig Bwlch y Moch. I'm guessing the routes are easy to travel to between each climb and they're close to each other?
Gordon Stainforth - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Luke Reader:
Yes, Bwlch y Moch for sheer number of easily accessible excellence is the best, though Pant Ifan is very good too. One problem is it's all got rather more vegetated in the last 20-30 years (global warming?), and the bottom of each routes= has always been hard to find. The trick with ByM is to stand on the far side of the road opposite the crag, locate your route from the guidebook diagram, and then make a beeline for it, as far as the paths will allow. Many have painted identification at the bottom.

The quality of the rock and the climbing is second to none; technically superb at all standards. One of its real merits is the fantastic speed with which it dries out after rain. Don't be put off if the weather's showery. You sometimes only have to wait on a stance for about 20 mins after a shower for the rock to dry off in the sun and wind.

I didn't answer one of your questions. The routes are not that easy to travel between at the bottom, unless they're very close together. If you want to go from the Vector buttress to the bottom of the Plum for example, it's probably simplest to go back out to the road and do as I described above.
Post edited at 18:46
Luke Reader - on 19 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Excellent thank you. I have some climbs written down and I like the sound of a few but I don't know how close they are and accessibility of them without a guide book or being there. I think a trip there is soon to be on the cards
Luke Reader - on 19 Nov 2017
In reply to all commentators and viewers:

Is anyone able to provide an update to the crag safety?
Just seen this article and was wondering how much has it affected the crag
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-hit-by


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