Chasing Antoine Le Menestrel

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 Evening Sends 05 Aug 2022

Tom McCarthy wrote an incredible profile of one of the all-time great sport climbers: Antoine Le Menestrel for my site. Feel free to delete this post if sharing this violates the forum rules, but I thought it'd lead to an interesting discussion over here in the UK. The part about Antoine being miffed at the re-creation of his famous free solo of Revelations had me laughing.

Hope people enjoy this story as much as I do!

https://eveningsends.com/climbing-freed-chasing-antoine-le-menestrel/

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In reply to Evening Sends:

Thanks, I enjoyed that.

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In reply to Evening Sends:

Ha!

It’s probably worth noting that I never had a phone call with Antoine and he initially thought the footage was him:

“And that’s why, when they did a film on the history of climbing in the U.K., they remade the shirt I had on. And I called the director and told him, ‘I’m not happy. Because the climber, he does not climb well.’ ‘But it’s a really strong climber,’ he said. ‘Yes, but his feet were all over the place!’ Me, when I did it, there was not a single hesitation. And I climbed it a lot better than he did. You should have called me for that, so that I could come redo the route.

“I’m not happy that you didn’t call me, and I’m not happy—because that climber, that scares me to watch!”

Post edited at 19:58
 john arran 06 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

What a wonderful article!

In reply to Evening Sends:

Thanks for posting the link. Excellent.

 McHeath 06 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

Very interesting content, but I found the style mildly pretentious, it grated somewhat.

As did "Didier Rabatou"; if we're talking climbing legends, then at least get the name right! And what exactly (maybe we've had this discussion here before) is a "vertical slab"?

Nonetheless - thanks for posting!

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 innes 06 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

Really enjoyed that.

A great character and well written.  Thanks. 

 john arran 06 Aug 2022
In reply to McHeath:

> And what exactly (maybe we've had this discussion here before) is a "vertical slab"?

The French word "dalle" is used to describe a fairly blank sheet of rock. Indeed the same word is used for sheets of wood. In that sense it isn't far removed from our word "slab", which also describes smooth sheets of building materials.

Both words were adopted as climbing terms a long time ago, and I suppose if the subject is climbing and you're talking about sheets of pretty featureless rock, you're usually going to be looking at pretty low-angled features.

I don't know whether the French had more vision that vertical "dalles" could also be climbable, or whether the rock types made that more feasible, but in any case it seems like where the English term "slab" has become synonymous with low angled rock, the French term "dalle" also includes much steeper walls as long as they appear reasonably featureless from a distance. Although I've yet to hear anyone refer to a radically overhanging but apparently featureless wall, such as some of the faces at Céüse, as a "dalle".

The article's use of the term "vertical slab" is clearly a direct translation from the French. I agree that technically it makes little sense in English, but I think it does a good job in conveying the largely holdless nature of much of the climbing being described.

 Ian Parsons 06 Aug 2022
In reply to john arran:

Other languages, too. The renowned Messner-Platte on the Heiligkreuzkofel's Central Pillar appears to be rather steeper than what we normally describe as a slab, while I'm sure that readers of 'Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage' will recall various references to 'overhanging slabs' plunging dizzily down into some abyss or other!

 McHeath 06 Aug 2022
In reply to john arran:

Thanks for clearing that up for me!

 donie 07 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

Thanks for posting this.Best climbing article Ive read in years.Wouldn’t it have been fantastic if he’d re-enacted the revelations solo on film.

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 dinodinosaur 08 Aug 2022
In reply to McHeath:

It's a slab that's vertical? I often call it steep slab.

Slabs are generally low angled rock where hands aren't really needed to hold on. Steep (or vertical) slab to me is where the angle is steep enough you actually have to hold onto the rock but it's not vertical or overhanging 

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 joeramsay 09 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

Thanks for posting, fantastic read! 

 BlownAway 09 Aug 2022
In reply to donie:

> Wouldn’t it have been fantastic if he’d re-enacted the revelations solo on film.

There is video of Antoine repeating the sequence, but he’s standing on the ground (at the bottom of the route) whilst he does it.

 McHeath 09 Aug 2022
In reply to dinodinosaur:

John Arran cleared this up perfectly above, have a read.

Google "climbing terms slab", and the first sentence will always include the term "less than vertical/90%". Hence my question.

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 Wicamoi 09 Aug 2022
In reply to Evening Sends:

That's a fine piece of writing Evening Sends, thanks.


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