In reply to Dave Rudkin:
Hi both
i'm aware that many of the lower offs here are badly worn due to excessive wear, probably and reportedly caused by continued top-roping by groups. Having said that, most of the lower offs are old karabiners, so not ideal and should be replaced by steel maillons and rings which are much more durable.
i wasn't aware of any recent landowner issues here - not had any reports of problems for a long time. There were historical issues with excessive cleaning and damage to the rockface, which resulted in one climber being formally warned by the then Countryside Council for Wales, that if he continued to damage the SSSI, he would be prosecuted. There were concerns by the landowner, about 5 years ago regarding excessive commercial/group use but I've not heard of and had any issues reported in last couple of years and certainly no issues with individual use. The crag lies on land designated as an SSSI but is also on open access land.
But nothing reported that would prevent some kind souls/local activists from replacing worn lower offs with stainless steel rings and maillions from the North Wales bolt fund.
Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)