UKH

The belays at the top of Clue So and Disappearing Act at Tevor Suspect Wall are shocking worn. The captive eye Karabiners are over half way worn down by top roping through them. If you are bringing Clue, So? (4c)Clue, So? (4c) Trevor Quarry groups to the crag please put your own belay Karabiners on the top rather than wearing out the insitu ones. I tried to remove them but the maillion rapids are corroded and can,t be undone. 

It really needs someone to cut these off and place a new maillion and ring on each lower off. I suspect there are others in similar condition there about.

Hi Ian,

The last I heard was that there were disagreements with the landowner with regards bolting, so no further replacements of bolts have occurred (which is much needed here). Agreed the maillion/rings could be replaced, but often onto very poor condition bolts. So Suspect Wall has suspect bolts.  Compact Wall, due to being retroed more recently, has bolts in better condition.

I’d be good to hear from Elfyn about any recent updates.

Hi both

i'm aware that many of the lower offs here are badly worn due to excessive wear, probably  and reportedly caused by continued top-roping by groups.  Having said that, most of the lower offs are old karabiners, so not ideal and should be replaced by steel maillons and rings which are much more durable. 

i wasn't aware of any recent landowner issues here - not had any reports of problems for a long time. There were historical issues with excessive cleaning and damage to the rockface, which resulted in one climber being formally warned by the then Countryside Council for Wales,  that if he continued to damage the SSSI, he would be prosecuted.  There were concerns by the landowner, about 5 years ago regarding excessive commercial/group use but I've not heard of and had any issues reported in last couple of years and certainly no issues with individual use. The crag lies on land designated as an SSSI but is also on open access land. 

But nothing reported that would prevent some kind souls/local activists from replacing worn lower offs with stainless steel rings and maillions from the North Wales bolt fund. 

Elfyn Jones 

BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)

We seem to get these reports about top roping groups wearing through belay karabiners. You would have thought that their insurance (if they have it) would have demanded regular checks of in situ gear. It's not that hard or expensive to replace - I've done it myself. Doesn't make sense...

I'm happy to do the work if someone provides the rings and maillons. I'm local and have time on my hands.