Seeing as the other thread about speed records on Idwal Slabs is so marmite, what are the best UK climbing challenges? The more esoteric and local the better!
And yes it is raining in Wales currently
The Frome Valley Challenge.
The Yorkshire Triple Crown
Cuillin Ridge in a day is still a good one.
How about Joe Brown's Welsh routes?
Most weight carried on a full traverse at West Vale (Greetland Quarry) - strictly no dabs.
Hopefully the pigshit has dried out on the back wall, but you might want to brush it first, just to be on safe side
(I used watch in slack jawed amazement as a stocky individual did this with some seriously big scuba diving weights round his waist.)
Staffordshire Nose (in a day) https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_lower_tier-105/the_staffor...
Stanage VSs https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/set.php?id=437
> Seeing as the other thread about speed records on Idwal Slabs is so marmite, what are the best UK climbing challenges?
Going somewhere that makes you happy just to be there and getting on a route you have dreamed about and which you are going to find hard but hopefully doable.
Pule Hill in a day.
Watkin Path in Crocs. I claim the first ascent.
I'd agree with those for Peak grit. For a more esoteric look at a grand day out for mortals HoseyB (I think) had a Staffs thrutching list (which I can no longer find) and we had a great day out with a sizable party checking out the BMC Burbage Troglodytes tour (we also did one for Stanage and Froggatt guides).
I put up a thread on such Peak grit routes a while back...
https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/peak_gritstone_grovels-now_tidi...
Not posting on UKC for a month?
On Peak Rock esoterica list? (On midsummer of course)
The Glen Coe nightmare: The Chasm, Crypt Route, and Clachaig Gully in a day.
Now that's a set of challenges to put and end to challenges (and challengers)
Highest tick count after Totalitarian (E1 5c).
Avon gorge vs challenge.
the main attraction of that seems to be the proximity to an ice cream van from comments.
The Kirkus Welsh routes.
The Silverdale & Arnside AONB VS Challenge (on foot or bike): https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1837
Lakes Hard Rock in a Day has been done... (not by me!)
Langdale Three Star VS in a Day
Langdale Three Star HVS in a Day
I'm sure a Langdale Three Star E1 in a Day could be devised...
Bill Peascod's Ladies Day Out
Hmmm... Many more in the Lakes come to mind...
Super Ramp challenge in Avon Gorge or king of the pass
Esoteric... tick, local... tick!
I present, the exmoor coast traverse!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_exmoor_coast_traverse-1242/#ov...
> The Kirkus Welsh routes.
I pondered that. Sometime ago there was a gentleman who'd often volunteer as a Guinea pig on pyb assessment days, he was mad for kirkus routes.
All the classic rock routes in the pass. All of tryfan's scrambles in a day.
I made of point of doing all the scrambles in the lakes and north Wales books, as it took you to different obscure bits of rock.
> Cuillin Ridge in a day is still a good one.
Mm yes. Gotta be unsupported though, and base to base within that day
None of that nonsense about getting a mate to carry your bivvy stuff up or down for you.
That is a given!
Got to be up there...complete winter ascent of Craig y Ysfa's Great Gully in ...daylight!
>"what are the best UK climbing challenges? The more esoteric and local the better!"
Send and document a boulder problem which is at a higher altitude than any other previously documented problem in Wales. Repeat for England Scotland and Northern Ireland.
> The Silverdale & Arnside AONB VS Challenge (on foot or bike): https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1837
Looks great!
> Lakes Hard Rock in a Day has been done... (not by me!)
Don't think this has been done in a day, classic rock has.
> Langdale Three Star HVS in a Day
This is excellent.
> I'm sure a Langdale Three Star E1 in a Day could be devised...
Not done it but this one is a monster!
Ben Nevis Ridges in a day - NE Buttress, Observatory Ridge, Tower Ridge and Castle Ridge.
Greater Cullin Ridge in a day.
I reckon a challenge that is impossible for most people due to time constraints and commitments is to climb every day for a year! Even every day for a month would be a challenge for most people.
> I reckon a challenge that is impossible for most people due to time constraints and commitments is to climb every day for a year! Even every day for a month would be a challenge for most people.
I did AT LEAST 6 months, climbing every single day. I think it was a bit longer. I certainly didn't skip a day. Happy days to say the least
Cuillin Greater Traverse is still a bit unambitious - Sligachan Horseshoe in time for a beer. Tick.
I'm sure lakes hard rock has been done in a day, I remember reading a blog or watching a video recently, I'll try to dig it out.
Edit, found it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T9jd0a6k7c&fbclid=IwAR1xhqvbVpUX8g_9OX...
How about a complete traverse of the mainland coast ?
Although it was an idea he cooked up on his own and will likely never be repeated, Dave McLeod’s 24/8 Day out sticks in my mind https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/03/248_challenge_-_dave_macleods_big_d...
> I did AT LEAST 6 months, climbing every single day. I think it was a bit longer. I certainly didn't skip a day. Happy days to say the least
Respec! 😊
I knew about this round - go to 10min.12sex in the film - it took the 30odd hours.
Fair do's I should have re-watched before posting.
Still a mighty fine effort regardless of time!
You're a better athlete than me - felt bloody ambitious when I did it! 😂
All the south west (original) Hard Rock routes in a day. The 2020 version includes Lundy so considerably more of a challenge and has not been done to my knowledge.
A route in each of the four nations in 24 hours. (only running, cycling and swimming allowed)
I don’t rekon we’re too far off that one...
Not done in a day, but done in big boots. Superb and the places it takes you to…..
I was told by someone that Lakes Hard Rock had been done in a day, running between crags! I cannae remember the lad's name - a young instructor...Might have been a miscommunication but I was definitely told that Maybe someone on here knows...!
Great! Pisses the Classic Rock round out of the water, no? I wonder why Tom Randall and Birkett the Younger(est) have been slacking so hard, leaving such things up to enthusiastic nobodies with only 13 likes on their video...
> Watkin Path in Crocs. I claim the first ascent.
But there are many styles of Crocs, some of which may give an unfair advantage on gravel, grit, carpet, etc.
So I propose Classic Rock in Classic Crocs - regional sub-challenges also encouraged especially if Crocs worn throughout, done in a day, etc.
That traverse of Swanage.
I believe there's some stuff on the Isle of white worthy of a big day or two out that's not so ordinary.
Although I have never tried climbing in Crocs I think I could get up a familiar VS in them. Maybe even a well chosen HVS. Having said that I can't walk down our local High Street in them when it's wet without sliding all over the place!
I love Crocs!
Whilst I'm sure it's on one of your troglodyte lists, I think Chris Fitzhugh's Proprioceptive Octet (AKA Pieces of Eight) deserves its own special mention. You can climb all the fancy pants 9as you like but you're just not a real climber until you enjoyed the ridiculousness of this fun and imaginative little 8 pitch epic!
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/birchen_edge-94/the_proprioceptive...
Peak Hard Rock in a day is a really enjoyable outing. We drove between the routes, but given the current trend it is ripe for a "human powered" effort (if that hasn't already been done?)
There's a write up here which includes another couple of big days out running and climbing.
https://doughton.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/running-like-a-climber-big-day...
Cheers, Dom
Chris's masterpiece was a late addition, so it missed a Troglodytes on Tour mention (p.502). Some misery guts questioned it's inclusion at all!
Reading that just reminded me that there are some amazing people out there!
> That traverse of Swanage.
This. Wonderland (E1 5c) is a 67 pitch E1 traverse of Swanage. Definitely a totally massive and mad day out.
Wow really? I'm glad it's in. Every poor soul that has met Chris up there and been coaxed up/down it will all have fond and unforgettable memories. Once you've exhausted the 4 (more) sensible pitches, then the real fun begins. I mean you have to do it just so you can earn the right to goad anyone who's hasn't done it to get stuck in.
About time someone ticked Cenotaph Corner in boxing gloves & roller skates!
> This. Wonderland (E1 5c) is a 67 pitch E1 traverse of Swanage. Definitely a totally massive and mad day out.
Have you done/tried this Mischa? I had a go and didn't get that far! Interested to know how other people have got on with it.
Can confirm it is both massive and mad.
Nah, I fancy having a go though if I'm down that way with a psyched partner. It's an absolute monster at a reasonable grade so I'm quite surprised at the seeming lack of attention. 67 pitches is longer than any of the biggest routes in the Longlines guidebook, for example.
You would do much longer pitches, say 35?
My Whatsapp "About" is "Life in Crocs" - see photo - not so much since going back into the office ☹
I have soloed Prow Cracks (VD) in them but really I should go down a size 😁
Impressive! Here's a few more routes for you to aspire to.
Traverse of the Crocs (HVS 4c)
there are others....
What's the Frome Valley challenge?
Spoiler alert, it's not E1
Its a mega climb/run/fun obstacles of the area.
Details are in the Frome Valley guidebook.
> Avon gorge vs challenge.
> the main attraction of that seems to be the proximity to an ice cream van from comments.
Two ice cream vans if you play your cards right.
> The Glen Coe nightmare: The Chasm, Crypt Route, and Clachaig Gully in a day.
This is now top of my list of things to do next summer!
Need a partner?
But when are we next due a summer?
> About time someone ticked Cenotaph Corner in boxing gloves & roller skates!
I dunno, maybe someone like Caff might be daft enough to give it a go...
> About time someone ticked Cenotaph Corner in boxing gloves & roller skates!
Or just do it without chalk, that'll fox most climbers.
> The Glen Coe nightmare: The Chasm, Crypt Route, and Clachaig Gully in a day.
You missed Raven's Gully
All this stuff about crocs is wimpy namby pamby stuff, at least they have a grip! Many years ago when I worked in Glasgow I was on a work course in Nottingham. The guy I was travelling with dropped me off in Penrith on the way back and I met one of my mates there. After the obligatory piss up I realised the only footwear I had was my leather soled work brogues so I walked up to Scafell in them the following day and attempted to lead Botterils Slab wearing them, at one point the shoes came off and I climbed barefoot making things actually doable!
Hold on a minute, we are talking about worn in/out Crocs where any semblance of useful tread has long worn away 😁
When I was still a youth, I once unintentionally left my EBs in the hut and climbed on the Mot in my worn out Adidas trainers, these had by then a rather smooth sole (it was a flat sole to start with anyway). Leading the top 5b pitch of Direct Route (VS 5b) was interesting, semi-jump into as high a bridge as possible and then immediately start sliding slowly down. Took many goes before I managed to reach the holds that allowed upwards progress to continue before I'd slid back down too far.
> Staffordshire Nose (in a day) https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roaches_lower_tier-105/the_staffor...
> Stanage VSs https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/set.php?id=437
im not sure if anyone has really done the staffs nose challenge as no one includes the overhanging offwidth on the left hand lower tier next to mushin. Reputed to have been done by brown but who knows. Aid was used alot in them days. So ramshaw crack isn't really a brown Whillans route
> Aid was used alot in them days. So ramshaw crack isn't really a brown Whillans route
Tell you what. You try it the way Brown did it, with your best approximation of the gear and footwear at the time, and let us know how easy it is...
I don't know what aid was used on Ramshaw Crack, so it's a bit hard to know what the appropriate gear/tactics would be.
I'll probably get shot down for saying this, but there must be 100s if not 1000s of climbers these days who could, if they wanted to, do lots of Brown/Whillans routes with the gear they did them with (rock routes anyway, not thinking about greater ranges atm). That's not to say that they would have done it if they were around at the same time as Brown/Whillans, but training has come on a long way since then and there are loads of climbers who are stronger than they were and at least some of those are pretty good mentally.
I'm nothing special, but I can think of at least 5 Staffs Nose routes I would happily solo in plimsolls (though I'd rather modern shoes!). For full clarity, I do not think I'm 'better' than Brown/Whillans.
> I don't know what aid was used on Ramshaw Crack, so it's a bit hard to know what the appropriate gear/tactics would be.>
As far as I know, Brown climbed up a bit, then spent about 5 mins, maybe significantly longer, hanging on whilst first inserting a chock then threading it. To paraphrase, "after all that, I was getting a bit tired". So he took a rest, then finished the route.
So he didn't really do it then.
> So he didn't really do it then.
Methinks you is fishing - you've certainly been around long enough to know that climbing ethics evolve over time. Do you really have any real doubt that if todays ethics were in place back then, he would have reversed to the ledge (or lowered down), pulled the ropes (and maybe removed the sling round the chock) and then led the whole crack without rests etc.
Obviously a great effort from Brown regardless of resting on the chockstone.
Any idea where the chockstone was? Makes quite a big difference, if it's in the offwidth section I'd say it would make the route a lot easier! I can't imagine the chockstone went in and was only used for gear, not for progress.
I think that Mark's point is pretty valid - Brown did it with aid, there are loads of routes which specify FA with points of aid and then first free ascent, it's clearly a distinction we make now - doesn't make the first ascent with points of aid any less valid. We do tend to then think of the free version (which is what modern climbers tend to try and emulate) as having had the FA done by whoever freed it.
In Jim Perrin's book The Villain he goes into detail on the first ascent of Ramshaw Crack. He says Joe placed a chockstone, got a sling around it, and then stood in the sling while arranging a higher chockstone for protection. All the moves were then climbed free. With how easy it is to slam a cam in now I think it's pretty harsh for modern climbers to be too hard on the old boy.
The expression "stood in the sling" sounds trivial. I suspect that standing in a sling on Ramshaw Crack would be a pretty difficult undertaking just by itself.
The most Northerly, Southerly, Westerly and Easterly recorded rock climbs in the United Kingdom, using public and human powered transport only in the shortest possible time
> With how easy it is to slam a cam in now I think it's pretty harsh for modern climbers to be too hard on the old boy.
That and everything else that he did.
OP: The Robin Smith ticklist in a year.
St Kilda, Shetland, Jersey and...what? You could be really perverse and do them in the order you listed, finishing gloriously under a railway bridge in East Anglia.
I do like the idea of 'innate' challenges far more than ones prescribed by a certain first ascensionist or inclusion in a book, I find all the Joe Brown or Classic Rock ones a bit naff. If you're going to do something that arbitrary, at least have the imagination to come up with it yourself (like Dave Mac's 24/8).
I've often thought 24/7 would be a great challenge for relative punters such as me, but with combined E points because E7 is too much harder than the other components. Possibly allowing the winter grades to be cumulative as well, because getting VIIs in condition at the same time as the rest is an arse, and V+II is much less daunting!
Problem with doing this in Lochaber is the absence of low-7 sport routes (that I'm aware of). I guess you could create a temporary one by preplacing gear on an E5.
Be great if you got a late dry cold snap in Llanberis - 7a on the slate, jog through Nant Peris and take your pick of 7As en route to (E4+E3) or (E3+E2+E2) or whatever on the bright side of the Pass, then back across to Cascade and cut across to Sargeant's Gully, forget the 7 Munros but there are at least 7 minor summits on the Snowdon horseshoe...
...and includes it in a new edition of Classic Rock.
> The most Northerly, Southerly, Westerly and Easterly recorded rock climbs in the United Kingdom, using public and human powered transport only in the shortest possible time
That sounds like a pretty good challenge using human powered transport ( though probably not particularly climbing focussed)
But doing it on public Transport sounds like a pointless waste of resources and time.
Doing essential, or even key elective journeys by public transport is laudable; but thinking up random reasons to travel huge distances using PT not so much.
Just to be clear, I'm fully in favour of people travelling huge distances to do specific stuff in that area, eg going to Lewis because the sea cliff climbing is world class, or to 'bleau because the bouldering is ueber brilliant.
But chosing a location simply because it is bloody miles away from the last location is nuts ( unless human powered)
> jog through Nant Peris and take your pick of 7As en route to (E4+E3) or (E3+E2+E2) or whatever
Excellent, I didn't realise I could claim E7 like that
I could maybe just about manage the 24/2. Liathath traverse (conveniently getting munros and winter tick), quick V2 boulder problem by the village then shoot off to Diabaig Pillar in evening sunshine. Could maybe get the sport 2 tick scrambling up to the bolts at the top of main cliff?