UKH

Poll - How do you feel about bolts on trad routes?

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 Mlewis 28 Nov 2022

Curious what the overall opinion is....

I could only make 4 options so it's hard to make an answer that suits all situations. 

For the record I'm never going to put and put a bolt on a route but I wouldn't complain if there was a nice shinny bolts on a run out section. 


My opinion of bolts on trad routes is -

No established trad line should ever have a bolt added even if the route has a dangerous no fall zone
225 votes | 0%
In some crags/routes pegs should be replaced with bolts
98 votes | 0%
Bolts should be added to some trad lines to make routes safer and more enjoyable for all
23 votes | 0%
If the route looks scary let's add a bolt to make it safe regardless of the location
20 votes | 0%
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89
 GravitySucks 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

0/10

1
In reply to Mlewis:

The discussion is far too complex for a meaningful poll. It doesn't break down into a reasonable number of distinct options, apart from the extremes of bolting everything or nothing at all.

 henwardian 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

Leaving the option open to add new voting options makes troll rubbish like this much more entertaining - take note for your next poll

2
OP Mlewis 28 Nov 2022
In reply to henwardian:

I'm pretty surprised that everyone did vote for bolt everything that looks scary...

1
 The Lemming 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

I'm happy with a ladder bolted next to the trad rout so that when topping-out, I don't have to worry about the dangers of abbing off or taking a long walk back to the base of the crag.

Maybe we could have a few put at Stannage Crag as they aren't too long and the ladders wont cost too much to buy.

Would anybody be up for chipping in a few quid to buy some ladders?

I'd need to buy some drills as well.

1
 Dax H 28 Nov 2022
In reply to The Lemming:

The travelling fraternity will have the aluminium ladders  away as fast as you can fit them. I would buy a better drill with chisel action and just cut stairs in to the crag. 

5
 henwardian 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Dax H:

> The travelling fraternity will have the aluminium ladders  away as fast as you can fit them. I would buy a better drill with chisel action and just cut stairs in to the crag. 

I actually got one of those recently and it's battery powered too. Let me know here you want the staircases and I'll see what I can do. Personally I was thinking that on gritstone, it's often the case that every square inch has a different route or eliminate, so we might need to put them up some slabby death E8 or E9 or something, I think that as so few people will ever climb these routes, it's reasonable enough to sacrifice a few so that normal climbers can get up and down safely.

1
In reply to henwardian:

That is surely the thin end of the wedge? Braille Trail today, Flying Buttress tomorrow!

Oh, wait...

 jasonC abroad 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

Surely if you add a bolt to trad route it can't be a trad route anymore?

Or am I missing the point

11
 spenser 28 Nov 2022
In reply to jasonC abroad:

I presume you've never climbed in the N Wales slate quarries?

2
 olddirtydoggy 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

We could turn 3 pebble slab into an escalator so the grade is settled once and for all.

 jasonC abroad 28 Nov 2022
In reply to spenser:

No such luck

 spenser 28 Nov 2022
In reply to jasonC abroad:

There are plenty of routes which have a single bolt in them which are very definitely still trad routes, put your average sport climber on them and they would start gibbering in fear very quickly, or flat out not get on the route.

5
 Max factor 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

What if it wasn't a bolt but was a peg-bolt ; )

1
 Holdtickler 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

Far too simplistic and funnelling people into voting for options which they may not entirely agree with. Also potentially giving some kind of go-ahead to rogue vandals...

Mods - consider removing...

9
 Misha 28 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

If the route looks scary let's add a bolt to make it safe regardless of the location
 

This. Let’s start with Indian Face. Might need more than one bolt. Meant to be 7b+ so would make for a steady Extreme Rock tick, as opposed to the other type of ER. There was I thinking I’d never tick ER…

1
 OCDClimber 29 Nov 2022
In reply to Holdtickler:

Why censor it?  This topic has been brought up time and time again over the years.  I suspect that, because it has, it gets discussed, dismissed and forgotten until such time that a new set of novices come around and display their ignorance only for the cycle to start over. Don't cancel discuss. If we can't talk about matters such as this on a climbing forum it begs the question what is the purpose of the forum?

1
 Sean Kelly 29 Nov 2022
In reply to Mlewis:

The start of a very slippery slope. With the application of bolts to trad routes it will all be downhill. There will be no adventure. At least top-roping doesn't deface the rock.

I refuse to vote. Or is this yet another wind up?

Post edited at 17:48
2
 Holdtickler 29 Nov 2022
In reply to OCDClimber:

Not against a survey, just think it needs to be a better thought out one than this taking into account the finer details of the whole discussion. 

There are far too many "what ifs" for options 2 and 3 for them to mean anything really. 

1
In reply to Mlewis:

The “replace some pegs with bolts” is a sensible option with wide consultation with local climbers. This is the approach taken by local activists in the Wye valley and Avon. 


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