UKH

This seems to be a big debate amongst climbers in Pembroke at the moment.  Notably on routes in huntsmans leap. The practice involves placing limpets to use as footholds on blank sections of rock.  For instance, on "just another day/scorched earth" we noticed several heavily polished limpets on the crux traverse, lowering the grade significantly.  

What are peoples thoughts on this increasingly popular tactic on hard Rock climbs. Indeed, are there animal welfare issues that can be considered?

Please answer below and we can finally shed some light on this dark practice. 

In reply to Oscar Popels:

Personally, I think it’s a bit shellfish. 

In reply to Oscar Popels:

Hi Oscar Propels,

Thank you for bringing this to our attention. I myself usually carry atleast 2 limpets on my helmet to get me out of tricky situations. 

(It is worth noting they can sometimes be difficult to remove from the helmet)

Should we not be concerned routes may become overlimpeted in the future?

I am personally most concerned about the use of limpets on inland crags. How can we justify there use on technical grit slabs?

In reply to plyometrics:

I've been working on my mussels.

In reply to Stanners:

I wonder how their use might affect the grade on Three Periwinkle Slab

In reply to Oscar Popels:

Most people clam up about the ethics, it’s difficult to winkle out a response 

In reply to Stanners:

This is surely a huge concern for the limpets involved, how are they expected to make their way back to the coast from a gritstone crag? Do you have a sufficient quantity of algae growing on your helmet for them to feed on?

In reply to Stanners:

As well as the crabs?

In reply to Oscar Popels:

It is allowed if your first language is Klingon 

In reply to Oscar Popels: I think you should clam up about this and just leave it to people’s own conch ense

In reply to Oscar Popels:

Using in situ limpets is par for the course but, like it or limpet, pre-placing them is pushing the limpet and I’d say beyond the pale.

In reply to Misha:

The trouble with these ethics debates is they so often descend into bar-nacle fights

In reply to Oscar Popels:

Below the high tide line it is acceptable to move or preplace them. Above this it counts as aid.

In reply to Andy Hardy:

Yes, this is clearly a sticky issue!

In reply to Oscar Popels:

I don't think you need to make anemone of anyone who has used them  

In reply to Iamgregp:

Personally, I think the sole reason the cray-ven basas are trying to perch themselves on a grade pedestal they don't deserve, is so they can carp on about themselves on social media. The pollocks should be named and shamed, and s-cuttle off.

In reply to Ciro:

If you can get a copy of 'The Ridiculous Mountains' by G.F. Dutton in the chapter titled 'Chalking it up' he uses limpets as opposed to the new-fangled chalk on a rather hard route on the Ben. A fine tale - as they all are.