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"Easy" 7a's in Leonidio

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 Kees 10 Oct 2019

This summer I climbed my first ever 7a (yeaha!). It was rediculously short, so maybe it wasn't even real 7a to be honest. Next month I will be visiting Leonidio and I'll be trying to consolidate the grade a bit, but also because I'll only be there for one week, I'd like to up my chances as much as possible.

So, any tips for nice and easy for the grade 7a's? My style is vertical and crimpy, rather then overhanging and pumpy. But I worked hard on my endurance the last months, so who knows I'l be able to pull some tufa's too...

 adamsriches 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

Try Montañejos Climbing Garden (A Vista Sin Despeinarse (7a) is doable) and Love Ledge. Seem to remember those being fairly vertical and crimpy. The grade didn't really seem to have settled at those crags when I climbed there earlier in the year though. Hot Rock would also be in the style you are looking for.

Post edited at 09:09
 john arran 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

I remember Ace of Spades Extension (7a) being pretty straightforward but nice climbing, although that may have been expectations-related because the non-extended version (about 6c in reality) was given 7a at the time on our topo and the extended version 7a+ (when it probably just about deserves 7a)

 markfairbank 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

Here are a couple I did that weren't too hard.

Capprisi (7a)

Brown Cougar (7a)

Both lovely routes whatever grade they get. Enjoy.

 Kees 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

Thanks a lot! Lots to try so far. I didn't know that the UKC database had so much information about those Greek climbs!

 Flavio 10 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

Sorry to disturb... but has anyone got a Leonidio guidebook they wish to lend me (preferred, will pay for p+p) or sell? Cheers!

 slucas 24 Oct 2019
In reply to adamsriches:

I did a couple weeks in Leonidio last Easter and sent quite a few of my first 7a onsights, even some +'s too! I'm not sure the grades are that true though. Some very soft routes. Came back a week later to Malham, got shut down. But at least I've got those ticks ;) !!

Look at my log for the routes I did. They were all really awesome and sweet crags.

 SGD 24 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

I'll 2nd Adam's recommendations. I've done Vista Sin Despeinarse and climbed a 7a @ Love Ledge called into the fire that was on the soft side and a 7b that was probably soft 7a/6c+.

You could also try Finding Mono (7a) at Maison De Chevres - sounds perfect for you and while you are there you can have a go at X-Mas (7a+) which at 7a+ is superb  the start is burly but the upper 2/3rd's sound perfect for you.

My Logbook is up to date if you want any other ideas (came back 2 weeks ago)

 MischaHY 25 Oct 2019
In reply to Kees:

This might sound odd, but I would recommend going out of your way to avoid 'soft touches'. 

You're far better off putting some time into a route that is solid at the grade than knocking out 2-3 'soft' routes that will inevitably get downgraded in the coming years. 

Also, you've already self-identified that steeper terrain is a significant weakness so I'd also say that focusing exclusively on that for the next month will do wonders for your ability across the board. This won't affect your strength on crimps, but rather enhance it by building more power and forearm endurance/core etc etc. 

Have a great time and find yourself a benchmark 7a to project and smash! 


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