In reply to Norman Hadley:
> Go for it, WaW. The Somme-like woes of Moasdale will be forgotten the second your boots touch the hem of Pen's skirts.
I camped on the Great Moss with my youngest son last year - my first visit to this wondrous place. We walked in from Eskdale after catching a train to Ravenglass, and then La'al Ratty to Dalegarth (a great way to start a walk), and followed the east bank of the Esk up past the swimming holes that you mention (busy). But once we started climbing up Throstle Garth, we had the place to ourselves. Scenery on a grand scale, and you can feel the atmosphere of the place - it really is the Wild Heart of the Lake District.
The following morning we exited via Esk Hause, an interesting route in itself, and walked past Angle Tarn down into Langdale to catch a bus home (actually 3 busses). Spotted no less than seven tents scattered around Angle Tarn, even though it must have been late morning by the time that we arrived - why do people feel the need to crowd together, when the fells, even in summer, are largely empty?
Next time I do a 'linear' route that involves walking through the Great Moss, I shall steel myself and climb Pen's skirts - I have had my eye on that line of ascent for a while. It has been a long time since I have walked along the Scafell Range (39 years), and I fancy camping somewhere high - there must be some good hidden corners up there.
Post edited at 09:18