Glencoe Grade 1 Scrambles

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 Jc1 27 Aug 2020

I'm looking for any Grade 1 scrambles that are near Glencoe (not wanting to travel to Ben Nevis area)

Any advice is much appreciated. 
 

In reply to Jc1:

A couple that jump to my head are Zig Zags on Gearr Aonach and Schoolhouse Ridge on Beinn a' Bheithir.

If you're comfortable with grade 2 then you'll have more choices available in Glencoe, with a bunch of options on the Buachaille alone and the Aonach Eagach as an example.

 d_b 27 Aug 2020
In reply to Jc1:

Rhyolyte Romp on Aonach Dubh is a nice one for a clear day.  It's mostly walking rather than scrambling but the positions are stunning.

N.B. Do not skim read the guidebook and go up the gully like I did.  Cross it and go up the path on the other side as the book actually says.

 Jim blackford 27 Aug 2020
In reply to Jc1:

check out the Pink Rib on Beinn a'Chrulaiste. Its straightforward for grade 1 but a nice way to the summit of a Corbett. Also i think great gully on buachille etive mor is grade 1/2 but its not frequently climbed so cant find any information. 

 timparkin 27 Aug 2020
In reply to d_b:

> Rhyolyte Romp on Aonach Dubh is a nice one for a clear day.  It's mostly walking rather than scrambling but the positions are stunning.

I've been warned that it can be a little loose and maybe one to do when it's dry rather than wet? Not tried it myself yet but it sounds like it's more 'loose, exposed walking' than 'rocky scrambling'. I'd be interested in your thoughts though...

 timparkin 27 Aug 2020
In reply to Jim blackford:

> check out the Pink Rib on Beinn a'Chrulaiste. Its straightforward for grade 1 but a nice way to the summit of a Corbett. Also i think great gully on buachille etive mor is grade 1/2 but its not frequently climbed so cant find any information. 

Broad Buttress is definitely fun and can be done as a loose walk, grade one or grade two depending on how you feel. The rock is wonderfully grippy too! There's a couple of videos online but be wary as on at least one the guy is trying to pick a hard line and scares himself at one point (and me watching) and the GoPro wide angle makes it look a lot worse than it is.

I think Great Gully Buttress (I presume you mean the buttress, not the Gully) should be similar but I know it's used in descent by many guides but they do abseil a couple of sections. 

 

 timparkin 27 Aug 2020
In reply to NullPointerEx17:

> A couple that jump to my head are Zig Zags on Gearr Aonach and Schoolhouse Ridge on Beinn a' Bheithir.

> If you're comfortable with grade 2 then you'll have more choices available in Glencoe, with a bunch of options on the Buachaille alone and the Aonach Eagach as an example.

Living in Ballachulish and having done both a few times I can definitely attest to the fact that they are fantastic routes. Schoolhouse ridge is barely a grade 1 scramble but takes you straight up the hill with amazing views. The zig zags has to be the most unlikely easy scramble in Glencoe though. Looks impossible as you approach but is actually a wide path for most of the way with only a small section of hands on that doesn't have a great deal of exposure (about 6m if I remember). 

 Grahame N 27 Aug 2020
In reply to Jc1:

> I'm looking for any Grade 1 scrambles that are near Glencoe (not wanting to travel to Ben Nevis area)

> Any advice is much appreciated. 

My advice is to buy this guidebook   https://www.smc.org.uk/publications/scrambling/highlands-south    All the info you need is here.

 d_b 27 Aug 2020
In reply to timparkin:

The first section is just a walk under the rhyolyte band.  Easy, but with a great views.

We screwed up by glancing at the diagram in our book, misinterpreting it, ignoring the text and going up Great Gully rather than crossing it.  We made it but IMHO it is dangerous without a rope.  Climbing up to vdiff on wet slabby rock with a memorable vertical moss pitch.  Don't do that.

Once you are on top it there's a pleasant ridge walk followed by a slabby downclimb then more walking.  Good scenery but not really technical.  I don't remember any particular difficulties there but anything would seem nice after the gully

I would say the parts of it I have done were pleasant and not particularly technical with an emphasis on walking rather than climbing but I can't talk about the ascent through the rhyolite band as I haven't actually done that bit. 

I think "loose, exposed walking" would probably be fair but would add "in excellent locations".

In reply to Jc1:

Some good suggestions already...

You'll find a Schoolhouse Ridge description (as part of a bigger day) here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=819

And here's the Pink Rib: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=1262

I think the latter is probably the best quality grade 1 scrambling in GC but it is sadly short-lived.

You could have a really nice day out going up Dinnertime Buttress (1) on Aonach Dubh, over Stob Coire nan Lochan and then down the Zigzags (1) but the scrambling bits would be brief sections of the overall day.

As others have said, grade 2 opens up a lot more possibilities such as

Aonach Eagach: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/index.php?i=73

Broad Buttress on the Buachaille is brilliant too (not sure how you'd climb it at less than grade 2)

 timparkin 27 Aug 2020
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:

> Broad Buttress on the Buachaille is brilliant too (not sure how you'd climb it at less than grade 2)

I may be misremembering it but it seemed that nearly all of the climbing I did was by choice instead of circumventing at the sides on slopey ground. That said there may well have been a section that you couldn't get past as easily. My knowledge of grade 1 is based on Schoolhouse Ridge and the Zig Zags and I would say most of the sections seemed easier than the small section on the Zig Zags for instance. I could have been having a good day though!

Tim

Removed User 28 Aug 2020

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