Odd isn't it, I'd always found that granite tended to have the more uneven placements that suit Wallnuts better, and that it was limestone and worn UK volcanic mountain rock and things which have those smooth-sided cracks which rocks just love. Mind you thats Cornish and stuff, its been a few years since I've been on the Chamonix variety.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Mick, why can't you see the helmet review on the gear page? It's under articles but not gear. I've notice before that when you advertise a new review in the Rocktalk forum, you can't find it on the gear page. Is there some slight bugs in the system?
In reply to Alasdair Fulton: They're more or less the same as they used to be - there was just a strange blip in the middle with over-sized cut-outs).
I think you two just aren't old enough to remember how they 'used to be'!!
> (In reply to Alasdair Fulton) They're more or less the same as they used to be - there was just a strange blip in the middle with over-sized cut-outs).
The old wallnuts were forged and hence very different. The new ones are cuts from bars like rocks. When they were forged it meant for example that in the larger sizes they were the only nuts that when you looked at them side on, they didn't have a hole. This made them much loved of winter climbers as they were much easier to smack with your ice axe blade when you were scared and wanted to make sure they didn't come out. You can see the old style one quite clearly on my rack in this pic: http://bp0.blogger.com/_3bhSo6922y4/Rq91M56kxdI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/ejXSI66ltfA/s1600-h/160_6052.JPG
> I think you two just aren't old enough to remember how they 'used to be'!!
But overall I never thought that Wallnuts are very different to place than Rocks - much much less than many make out here. I've always used Wallnuts as my "main" nuts so just got very used to them. I like their offset-ness in their secondary orientation.
In reply to Dom Whillans: If you check the bottom of the article there is a quote from Simon at DMM explaining how they are made. I believe that the alloys are exactly the same for both the Rocks and the Wallnuts. The old style un-anodised Rocks were made abroad and so cant verify whether it was a different alloy used- I suspect that it might have been though.
In reply to Jon Griffith:
ah, must have missed that bit. thanks for the info... i'd kind of assumed that the alloys used must be the same now, i wonder if that will affect people's perception on how 'grippy' wallnuts are compared to Rocks?