UKH

NEW REVIEW: Wild Country Anodised Rocks by Jonathan Griffith

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 Michael Ryan 18 Jun 2008
Born in 1979 from the fertile mind of Mark Vallance, founder of Wild Country, WC Rocks are found on most climbers racks.

Here Jonathan Griffith takes a fresh look at Wild Country Anodised Rocks and yes he does ask the question, DMM Wallnuts or Wild Country Anodised Rocks?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1074

Have you experience of this product? Please feel free to add your opinion to this forum thread about this product.
 AJM 18 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Odd isn't it, I'd always found that granite tended to have the more uneven placements that suit Wallnuts better, and that it was limestone and worn UK volcanic mountain rock and things which have those smooth-sided cracks which rocks just love. Mind you thats Cornish and stuff, its been a few years since I've been on the Chamonix variety.

Funny old world......

AJM
In reply to AJM: I think there's probably even less difference between them now than there used to be, because the Wallnuts are not quite as radical in shape as they used to be!
 Jon Griffith 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Alasdair Fulton: true, they are very similar now-a-days
 Chris F 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"All in all I'd recommend getting a set of both Anodised Rocks and Wallnuts"

This review was sponsored by Wild Country UK
 Michael Ryan 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Chris F:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> "All in all I'd recommend getting a set of both Anodised Rocks and Wallnuts"
>
> This review was sponsored by Wild Country UK

Gear Reviews aren't sponsored by anyone. We produce the most independent reviews of climbing gear in the UK.

See the DMM offset review later this week.

Also: see Gear reviews here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/ for reviews that both praise and are critical.

Further, like this one, all reviews are open to comment and counter comment, so reducing the BS factor.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Mick, why can't you see the helmet review on the gear page? It's under articles but not gear. I've notice before that when you advertise a new review in the Rocktalk forum, you can't find it on the gear page. Is there some slight bugs in the system?
 Michael Ryan 24 Jun 2008
In reply to TobyA:

On it.
 IainWhitehouse 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Alasdair Fulton: They're more or less the same as they used to be - there was just a strange blip in the middle with over-sized cut-outs).
I think you two just aren't old enough to remember how they 'used to be'!!

Iain
In reply to IainWhitehouse:
> (In reply to Alasdair Fulton) They're more or less the same as they used to be - there was just a strange blip in the middle with over-sized cut-outs).

The old wallnuts were forged and hence very different. The new ones are cuts from bars like rocks. When they were forged it meant for example that in the larger sizes they were the only nuts that when you looked at them side on, they didn't have a hole. This made them much loved of winter climbers as they were much easier to smack with your ice axe blade when you were scared and wanted to make sure they didn't come out. You can see the old style one quite clearly on my rack in this pic: http://bp0.blogger.com/_3bhSo6922y4/Rq91M56kxdI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/ejXSI66ltfA/s1600-h/160_6052.JPG

> I think you two just aren't old enough to remember how they 'used to be'!!

I am!

But overall I never thought that Wallnuts are very different to place than Rocks - much much less than many make out here. I've always used Wallnuts as my "main" nuts so just got very used to them. I like their offset-ness in their secondary orientation.

 Chris F 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: means I was joking. Hop off the high horse and put it back in the stable. And give it a sugarlump.
 Michael Ryan 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Chris F:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) means I was joking. Hop off the high horse and put it back in the stable. And give it a sugarlump.

I know you were. My reply wasn't meant for you.

 Dom Whillans 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: being as both brands are now made by DMM (a good thing IMHO) is there a difference in the alloy used? was there a difference historically?
 Jon Griffith 24 Jun 2008
In reply to Dom Whillans: If you check the bottom of the article there is a quote from Simon at DMM explaining how they are made. I believe that the alloys are exactly the same for both the Rocks and the Wallnuts. The old style un-anodised Rocks were made abroad and so cant verify whether it was a different alloy used- I suspect that it might have been though.
jon

 Dom Whillans 25 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Griffith:
ah, must have missed that bit. thanks for the info... i'd kind of assumed that the alloys used must be the same now, i wonder if that will affect people's perception on how 'grippy' wallnuts are compared to Rocks?
 Chris James 25 Jun 2008
In reply to Dom Whillans:

I read the DMM quote to be the exact opposite of what has been suggested above.

It reads:

'We make the nice anodised Rocks for WC and use similar metals/treatments for both the anodised Rocks and Wallnuts.

However we use 7075-T6 aluminium on our smaller Wallnuts because this resists shearing forces better than softer alloys whilst still retaining good bite.

While the entire range of Rocks is made from 6082 aluminium alloy which is softer.'

Soi small wallnuts are made from a different (less grippy?) alloy than large wallnuts and all rocks.

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