Versatile approach / mixed shoes.

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 Blake 05 Jul 2023

Hi

I'm looking for advice on a decent pair of shoes/trainers for hill running that incorporates bits of climbing. 

I like going for walks/runs in the hills and as part of the routes I do I like to solo various climbs. I normally take a little bag and clip on a pair of climbing shoes, but I reckon I'm happy climbing up to VS grade in decent shoes. I have several pairs of decent trail shoes, which are ok for trail and fell, but awful for climbing.

I've done so in the past with Five Ten 'tennies', but I can't seem to find much Five Ten stuff for sale online nowadays, it seems that Adidas have absorbed and killed Five Ten and in their place they sell Adidas alternatives. I see no mention of Stealth rubber though which bothers me, they talk of Terrex rubber - is this any good? I'm not sure I can use Adidas for climbing, just doesn't feel right.

I guess I'd like some advice and suggestions on a pair of shoes/trainers that are comfy enough to wear all day and run sections in, but when it comes to it have decent technical rubber and a technical fit and toe box. I'd like a decent edge on them. Don't get me wrong they don't have to be mega high tech or anything, just as long as they don't feel like big floppy foamy boats with an inch of foam beneath the sole.

Thanks in advance

Blake

 James0101 05 Jul 2023
In reply to Blake:

For the lakes classic rock record, Shane Ohley wore...

"VJ iROCK 3 shoes. Before committing to this shoe, I tried climbing in various other brands, but I found that the grip from the iROCK's butyl rubber sole was best suited to climbing. I ran in shoes ½ a size too small, which hurt my feet and bruised my toes but gave me the fit I needed to climb confidently."

The other elite level climbers who soloed the round wore climbing shoes and changed.

I like my Scarpa Mescalisto approach shoe for fast hiking and have climbed F6a in them, on a rope.

 jezb1 05 Jul 2023
In reply to PaulJepson:

I really like the Rock Guides, personally wouldn’t want to run very far in them though, too flat for me. Mega for the scrambling / climbing side of things though!

 galpinos 05 Jul 2023
In reply to Blake:

If you are happy running in tennies then anything you fancy that climbs well! I have a pair of TX Guides that I would use for a similar outing (big day with scrambling sections) but the running would only be of the "short jog on downhill section" variety and the climbing would max out at V Diff, not VS! 

 Iamgregp 05 Jul 2023
In reply to Blake:

Yeah it's a shame about the 5.10 Tennies - I've got a pair of the retro 80s ones and they're great, feel just like a trainer and good for climbing easier routes.  I've also got a pair of La Sportiva TX4s for more serious approaches but wouldn't want to run in them!

However the La Sportiva TX2 look like they might fit the bill  - Vibram rubber soles, a trainer upper, and the soles even have a tread free portion around the toe for climbing https://www.lasportiva.com/en/tx2-man-black-17y999100


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