UKH

Anyone got any opinions on the newest Scarpa vapour lace? I've got a right softie shoe that's perfect for the grit but looking for something stiffer and more precise for limestone/granite climbing. I've fit nicely into the Scarpa vapours in the past but can't find that many reviews for the latest ones which seem like they're made a lot lot stiffer.

In reply to wjvt:

It's probably the best fitting shoe I've got, so obviously it works well for me. Stiff enough on limestone edges, good for smearing, an excellent all round shoe for route climbing.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Oh sounds like a winner then. One thing I was worried about was it being too stiff to smear well but sounds like that's not the case. Cheers for the input! 

In reply to wjvt: Strange concidence... I got a pair yesterday so my impressions are from one session on a wall.  Not as stiff as I expected.  Very comfortable.

In reply to wjvt:

I find stiff shoes mostly smear fine, but maybe not when they're too downturned and asymmetric because it's harder to get lots of rubber contact.

In reply to wjvt:

I believe there's a review on them done by Rob Greenwood on here somewhere!

2 secs.

I lie, it's the Velcro version. Soz

In reply to wjvt:

I'd say they are moderately stiff, very comfortable, good all-rounders and, good with edges and smearing. The toe box is quite big compared the previous generation vapour lace owing to the increased toe rubber, as such much better for toe hooking but a bit more awkward for getting into small pockets/partially obstructed foot placements. Also the rubber on the heel is significantly thinner than the previous generations, which can be problematic sometimes on balancy, weighted, one foot on heel hooks.

In reply to Euan McKendrick:

I was - and to an extent still am - confused by the Vapour V. It just seemed a little disjointed within its design/purpose: a supportive shoe which was ultimately pretty unsupportive as a result of its extremely soft midsole.

Whilst I haven't used the Vapour Lace, I remember seeing it at a trade show (back when such things existed) and thinking it looked like a much more coherent offering. The full length sole means that its actually going to support your foot, rather than flex around it, which is ultimately what you want on a lot of UK trad/sport.

I'm currently reviewing the new Boostics, which are like a turbo-charged version of the Vapour Lace, albeit with a wider, more asymmetric shape. Happy to pass further comment on these if anyone is interested?

In reply to wjvt:

I have multiple pairs of the Vapour V and find the Vapour lace a bit more uncomfortable by comparison. They pinch my big toe quite a bit.