In reply to Offwidth:
Love the way this thread is diversifying into so many opinions & experiences. It shows quite how many elements are involved and also how there are many rights and (more?) wrongs.
After years of trying to perfect tactics & theories my biggest (& not very useful) conclusion is that the Cuillin Ridge is bigger than me, the weather's something I can't change and shit happens.
There are major cock-ups to avoid though-
Underestimation is no.1- (Urgency a la Grand course Alpin, not a wee UK hill jolly approach)
A "purist, on-sight" mentality like its some oversized boulder problem. (Is this common attitude on, for eg, the Chamonix Aiguilles? If it is I'll rein the neck in).
Partner imbalance (and not knowing how to deal with it)
Large teams (never succeeded with more than 3:1)
Going for it in the wet
Not knowing the route in mist but "givin it a go ayway" Baaad option!
Wrong ropes & too much rack- plenty beta on ukc threads. (If need a rack and 8QD's to lead Severe in big boots learn to climb better or find out about the bypasses of TD Gap , Kings & Naismiths.)
Hope it all helps someone out there...
PS Mark Kemball- water sources all listed in the SMC Cuillin guidebook of 2011 available from a supermarket near you or a certain guide in Skye