Crampon Advice

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 stanante 11 Mar 2023

I have a pair of Scarpa Manta Tech GTX's and want to fit some C2 crampons.

I was wondering whether I can look for a pair of second-hand ones or do I need someone to 'fit them properly' as it were?

Any advice on this and if second-hand is a good way to go then any recommendations on a pair of C2's would be welcome

 Alex Riley 11 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

Second hand should be fine, you will want a pair with a toe basket and heel bail. Something like the grivel g12 or petzl vasak would be ideal. 

Once you have them it's just a case of adjusting the length and heel bail then making sure the strap is long enough.

Post edited at 19:00
 nufkin 11 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

>  Something like the grivel g12 or petzl vasak would be ideal. 

I might take the liberty of refining this suggestion and - assuming you're walking in Mantas more than climbing graded routes - suggest the Air Techs over the G12s, as the teeth are a wee bit shorter and so they're a little easier to walk in. Also therefore a touch lighter

 beardy mike 11 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

What are you planning on using them for? Walking, easy winter climbing or intermediate winter climbing? In grivel I'd go airtight, g12, g14 for those uses. Petzl would be vasak, vasak, Sarken.

 montyjohn 11 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

I'm using a pair of old black diamond sabertooths that work well with my Matas.

 LucaC 12 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

Another vote for AirTechs. They’re my go to crampons with Mantas and a good combo for walking and easy mountaineering. 
 

I don’t see a problem with second hand crampons, if they look in reasonable condition there’s not much to go wrong with them. 

 Jordan-L 12 Mar 2023
In reply to stanante:

Don't know about the other crampons mentioned, but Grivel crampons come in 3 different binding types within each model.

New classic (C1)- will fit on any boot (to an extent)

New-matic (C2) - fit on a b2 boot with heel bale

Cramp-o-matic (C3)- fits on a b3 boot with heel and toe bales. 

For the manta techs you'd want the New-matic binding system. Like said previously, airtechs are a bit better for walking, while g12/14 will have better climbing performance. 

If you're buying second hand make sure the points are still sharp or that they haven't been sharpened down completely to small nubs so you can sharpen them yourself, and that the straps and rivets etc are all intact.

 TobyA 12 Mar 2023
In reply to Jordan-L:

> Like said previously, airtechs are a bit better for walking, while g12/14 will have better climbing performance. 

Have you used both? I'm interested in why you say this. In the UK my experience is that this often isn't really the case.

 Jordan-L 12 Mar 2023
In reply to TobyA:

I've not actually tried both. I have g12s and my other half has airtechs though, so I maybe should. I have been told previously that the airtechs were slightly better for walking though, as others have said above.

I guess the theory is that the shorter 3rd set of points on the airtechs below the ball of the foot would be more stable on rounded rocks, which is why the g10's don't have this point and give a more natural gait? Also, the 2nd pair of points on the g12's point forwards slightly more and are a tad longer, which would possibly mean more chance of them biting when on steeper ground. Really there's not much in it though. 

I should probably give them both a try next time I'm out to confirm or disprove this theory, before giving this recommendation in future. 

Edit to add: if you have used them both and you found different, then the OP should maybe go with real world experience over theory!

Post edited at 09:01
 TobyA 12 Mar 2023
In reply to Jordan-L:

I've belayed my mate on pitches of tech 6 looking up at his airtechs, and they don't seem to cause him any issues!

For winter climbing in the UK (which nowadays for me is predominantly Wales or the Lakes, more occasionally Scotland), I think crampons with shorter downward points, like Airtechs, are better because so much of the time you are going through to rock or grass underneath, and shorter points are more stable and predictable. I've got CT Nepals when I want a hybrid crampon and BD Snaggletooth for when I want a full step in. I've had G12s for over 20 years, and have climbed a lot in them down the years, but they are definitely less comfortable for walking about in. I don't find any disadvantage in walking on pure ice with shorter points, or whilst climbing up to my top level which is IV or V on a good day!

When I used to climb almost solely pure water ice the length of points didn't matter that much. I've got DMM terminators (actually my second pair after managing to break the frame on the first pair after about 8 years of regular use!). I always presumed that monos where optimal for steep ice, but oddly when I broke the first terminators and waiting for a new pair to be sent, I started using my G12s and found I was just as happy ice climbing in them (in my profile photo, that's what I'm wearing) as long as the temperatures weren't too low (say sub -10). But since moving back to the UK I've hardly used the G12s or the Terminators finding for UK winter routes shorter downward points are better.

 Alex Riley 12 Mar 2023
In reply to TobyA:

G12 Vs airtech is horses for courses, they are very similar. If you are walking more airtechs are probably better, climbing more then g12s.

I've seen a few recommendations for g14s, I've had a pair and wouldn't recommend them, they are very heavy compared to the similarly modular petzl lynx (150g lighter) or dart (280g lighter). 

 TobyA 12 Mar 2023
In reply to Alex Riley:

What do you find makes the G12s better for climbing? Do you mean UK winter climbing? 

 Alex Riley 12 Mar 2023
In reply to TobyA:

Slightly longer front points, but pretty marginal differences to be honest. When they are worn then feel pretty similar.

 TobyA 12 Mar 2023
In reply to Alex Riley:

Maybe the design has changed, my G12s are I think 22 years old!, but like I said my ones definitely feel a bit more "platform soles" when walking around on powder covered scree on the top of many UK hills! :⁠-⁠) 

I definitely see the appeal of katoolas and those sort of mini crampons if you're walking in low snow conditions. Oddly I still use these funny things from time to time https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/snow+ice/crampons/beast_lite_crampons_from_... they've got very short downward points so work rather well on frost glazed or verglassed rock. Although I mainly take them on early season solo scrambles and the like because they're so light if they are mainly going to be in my pack!


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