UKH

I was a huge fan of the 5.10 Anasazi Pros when they were released: A good improvement on the original Anasazis with the addition of the toe rubber and finally a fix for that awful baggy heel.

However, since the Adidas takeover the build quality has been shocking. I'll burn through a pair of shoes in 5-6 months when previously they would last at least 9. Now granted i should be more forward thinking and get them resoled at the first signs of wear, but alas I always seem to leave it one week too many and they end up beyond repair.

After the last couple of pairs I've resigned to the fact that I probably need to stop hoping they'll return to their former glory and look for an alternative. The general chatter around the climbing gym is that Tenaya or Unparallel (perhaps the Leopard?) may offer similar builds. I.e. Flat-ish sole, snug heel, ample toe rubber, so I wanted to hear the opinions of the internet.

Tl;dr what's the best alternative to the Anasazi Pro?

UP Rise VCS would be the nearest equivalent?

Haven’t Addidas owned 5.10 for around 7 years and the Anasazi Pro been around for about 4 years?

They originally bought the brand but didn't change much but have now taken over/changed the manufacturing from the old 5.10 way, hence all the sizing changes etc.

The Mad Rock Remora might be worth a look, it has a moderate downturn but similar to the Pro and has plenty of toe rubber. 

Yes, you're right sorry I guess specifically I'm referring to the manufacturing changes circa 2019 (I think). There was a notable change in the quality and all of the UK sizing changed such that I ended up having to go a whole number size larger than I was previously buying

Have you got any experience with them at all? The reviews generally seem pretty good

Haven't heard of those, I'll take a look thanks 

No, I have the Regulus and NewTro VCS though and rate them. For a flat lasted shoe, I am still working through my box of discounted whites, one box fresh pair left......

Once they wear out, try the Miura VS from La Sportiva. I know several people who have swapped to this from Blancos and been very please indeed. Kataki is another good option (even stiffer IMO but with a different shaped heel). 

My climbing partner did that and really rates the VS. I'm still unsure. I don't like change......

We-el change is coming whether you like it or not so you may as well make a good choice  

For what it's worth I've used the VS extensively in places like Siurana and found it brilliant on that classic 'blanco' terrain i.e. minging edges and similar lime weirdness. 

I must say though, the Kataki is shaping up to be the new hero. It's really savage on an edge - super stiff and precise. I'm hoping for a little more sensitivity once they're properly broken in but we'll see how it goes. You have to downsize pretty aggressively though, I've got 40.5 for a street size of 44.5. 

Miura VS are indeed lovely shoes (as were the Blancos) but somewhat different in style from the browns and pros no? 

Another vote for Miura VS, they are my everyday shoe and they have a brilliant balance of comfort and performance. You can wear them all day yet still climb hard.. ! This is of course reliant on them fitting you  

Yeah I was speaking with galpinos about replacing his whites. 

I know, and I do appreciate the advice. I have found the most important aspect of a rock shoe is it being one I trust, hence my reluctance to change. I use my whites for pretty much everything (outdoors), there's something about them that makes me believe my foot is staying put.

Changing shoe means I have to build that confidence up again.

The new boostic maybe one to hold out for, I know lots of people that rave about the current one. 

Ah I should really learn to stop skim reading threads, sorry. Third the Miura VS recommendation, or possibly the Scarpa Mago?

The instincts are so massive (wide) that I'd kind of decided Scarpa weren't for me. Are the Boostic narrow then?

No idea! Looking at the website the Boostic is listed as narrow along with the new Booster, but according to peoples take on here and Rob's recent review about the new Booster, it appears that they are wide(r). No idea how that relates to the width of instincts though. 

I switched to unparallel from 5.10 about a year ago and wouldn't go back. 

I've got up lace and up rise vcs. It took 2 months to trust them completely, but I've come to the conclusion that the rubber is sticker than stealth. 

Both great flat shoes and the quality of the build is night and day compared to 5.10.