In reply to glaramara:
There is what looks like a newly bolted descent down to the gianetti hut. Each rap is approximatley 50m (so you need two ropes)
From the summit scramble down what seems to be the normal way but at a lone Bull ring bolt keep right untill you see a large wide gully on the right. On this wall there is a two bolt anchor that you do a 50m abseil to the next anchor after this 3 or 4 more 50m abseils all in line down the face put you at the foot of the moraine (with another optional abseil to cross a snow patch)
Its hard to explain the descent but we followed an italian team all the way down that had the new descent discription (whilst we had the plasir guide book descent) and if you phoned the Gianetti hut they would be able to tell you the way and maybe send you some topo ?
Hope this helps we did the north ridge 4 weeks ago and it was brilliant
All the best
Aled