/ Karakoram British 1st Ascent

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Alex Ekins 12 Nov 2019

A Japanese friend has sent me the following message. Can anyone help?

I had a climbing expedition to Charakusa gracier in Karakorum range Pakistan this August, and managed to climb Naisa Brakk (Nayser Brakk) from its north east ridge.
The route is called British Route, and now I'm curious about when and who made the first assent. 


Thanks  Alex

leon 1 12 Nov 2019
In reply to Alex Ekins:  Dave Hamilton with Andy Bunnage in 1988 ( AAJ 1989 - page 254)  Do I win a prize?

Post edited at 12:07
JLS 12 Nov 2019
In reply to leon 1:

No link, no prize.


Charakusa Spires, 1987 and 1988. The five glacier systems leading up from
the head of the Hushe Valley offer remarkably easy access to spectacularly steep
walls of rock and ice characteristic of the Karakoram. From July to September
1987, Ruben Mookerjee, Mick Seavers, Dave Pritchard and I chose to concentrate
on the Charakusa (or Saraqsa) Glacier to the east. We first attempted
unclimbed Nanika (6325 meters, 20,750 feet) by its northwest ridge. After two
days, we were forced to retreat from a bivouac at 18,800 feet by an exploding
stove and deteriorating weather. The ice-and-mixed climbing would have
required four or five days to complete. (Nanika was climbed three weeks later by
another British group via a rock spur on the southwest.) We then attempted to
repeat alpine-style the 1978 Japanese route on the north ridge of Dryphica (6568
meters, 21,500 feet). Weather again forced a retreat from a bivouac at 20,800
feet. The one successful ascent in 1987 was made by Mookerjee and me on
September 4 of the south couloir of Sulo (6005 meters, 19,700 feet), a second
ascent. The route, while not difficult, is exposed to serious rockfall. With
perfect weather, great friendship and help from the Hushe villagers, it was very
enjoyable. A 16-page report and maps are available. From July to September
1988, John Stiles, Andy Bunnage, Bob Pettit, Steve Jones, Bob Marks, Jill
Onyett, Chris Holder, Dave Pickels and I returned. We chose to work in smaller
teams. In eight weeks of climbing, we reached four unclimbed summits. Stiles
and Marks made a two-day ascent of a crack-and-chimney system on the
southwest face of Kar Spire (5791 meters, 19,000 feet). Bunnage and I climbed
Nayser Peak (5700 meters, 18,700 feet) in a single day. This spectacular
pyramid’s north ridge was gained from a scree slope which led to a co1 at 17,600
feet. A very long, continuous ice gully, 3500 feet high, led to the summit of
Hussain Peak (5852 meters, 19,200 feet). It was climbed on a very long day by
Bunnage and Marks. Stiles, Pickles and I climbed Poro Peak (6187 meters,
20,300 feet) from an advance camp at 18,200 feet. An easy snow slope led to the
summit ridge at 19,800 feet. It was there that the pinnacles and difficulties started. There remains a great deal of potential in this area for small teams to
attempt unclimbed peaks. I am preparing a history of climbing on the Hushe
region, listing all known ascents and all unclimbed summits, as well as a
detailed map based on data gained on the 1987 and 1988 expeditions. It is
available from me, 91 Telford Avenue, London SW2 4XN, England.
DAVID HAMILTON, Alpine Climbing Group

leon 1 12 Nov 2019
In reply to JLS:  Glory Seeker ! 

And I was sure the prize was all mine by beating Damo to the answer. However Im glad to see that someone else has bugger all to do today.

Post edited at 12:29
Damo 13 Nov 2019
In reply to leon 1:

I see that my work here is done.


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