In reply to leon 1:
No link, no prize.
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/1989/pakistan1989_240-270.pdf
Charakusa Spires, 1987 and 1988. The five glacier systems leading up from
the head of the Hushe Valley offer remarkably easy access to spectacularly steep
walls of rock and ice characteristic of the Karakoram. From July to September
1987, Ruben Mookerjee, Mick Seavers, Dave Pritchard and I chose to concentrate
on the Charakusa (or Saraqsa) Glacier to the east. We first attempted
unclimbed Nanika (6325 meters, 20,750 feet) by its northwest ridge. After two
days, we were forced to retreat from a bivouac at 18,800 feet by an exploding
stove and deteriorating weather. The ice-and-mixed climbing would have
required four or five days to complete. (Nanika was climbed three weeks later by
another British group via a rock spur on the southwest.) We then attempted to
repeat alpine-style the 1978 Japanese route on the north ridge of Dryphica (6568
meters, 21,500 feet). Weather again forced a retreat from a bivouac at 20,800
feet. The one successful ascent in 1987 was made by Mookerjee and me on
September 4 of the south couloir of Sulo (6005 meters, 19,700 feet), a second
ascent. The route, while not difficult, is exposed to serious rockfall. With
perfect weather, great friendship and help from the Hushe villagers, it was very
enjoyable. A 16-page report and maps are available. From July to September
1988, John Stiles, Andy Bunnage, Bob Pettit, Steve Jones, Bob Marks, Jill
Onyett, Chris Holder, Dave Pickels and I returned. We chose to work in smaller
teams. In eight weeks of climbing, we reached four unclimbed summits. Stiles
and Marks made a two-day ascent of a crack-and-chimney system on the
southwest face of Kar Spire (5791 meters, 19,000 feet). Bunnage and I climbed
Nayser Peak (5700 meters, 18,700 feet) in a single day. This spectacular
pyramid’s north ridge was gained from a scree slope which led to a co1 at 17,600
feet. A very long, continuous ice gully, 3500 feet high, led to the summit of
Hussain Peak (5852 meters, 19,200 feet). It was climbed on a very long day by
Bunnage and Marks. Stiles, Pickles and I climbed Poro Peak (6187 meters,
20,300 feet) from an advance camp at 18,200 feet. An easy snow slope led to the
summit ridge at 19,800 feet. It was there that the pinnacles and difficulties started. There remains a great deal of potential in this area for small teams to
attempt unclimbed peaks. I am preparing a history of climbing on the Hushe
region, listing all known ascents and all unclimbed summits, as well as a
detailed map based on data gained on the 1987 and 1988 expeditions. It is
available from me, 91 Telford Avenue, London SW2 4XN, England.
DAVID HAMILTON, Alpine Climbing Group
