Island Peak - November: Boot Dilemma

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 Spready 06 Feb 2023

I have searched the archives and read many different articles from various organizations but there seems to be a split in the opinions. 
Consequently, I was after perhaps some real-world user experience. 

I am booked on an Island Peak trip, Mid-November. 
What boots to purchase? 

I do have fussy wide feet so I need more of a type idea rather than a specific make / model. 
(Wide means that La Sportiva boots feel like having my feet in a vice)!

The split is between Double boots, like the Boreal G1s 
Or a single boot like the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX... 
Im just using these as a guide. 

Some have suggested the single boots are fine.. and then add on a full yeti gaitor. 
Well, after today's googling... it appears they have disappeared, which now causes another issue if full gaiters are no longer available.

Getting a boot that is also suitable for Alpine stuff would mean longevity.. But I wouldn't want to risk my toes!! 

So, any advice... perhaps specifically from people who have been at that time of year? 
Thanks in advance..
   

 John Lyall 06 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

I would say go for double boots as it can get pretty cold in November. You can hire good boots out in the Khumbu, to save you buying boots that you don’t need again. 
I hope you have a great trip.

OP Spready 07 Feb 2023
In reply to John Lyall:

Thanks John.. 
with my feet... I cant risk leaving it until there.. 
i'd rather buy then resell afterwards.. 

Lots of research is being done now... and then comes the challenge of finding them... It does seem that many boots are now hard to come by..
 


 wjcdean 07 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

look at 'expedition kit hire', that's what i did for a nepal trip in April 2023. It's a much more cost effective option than buying if you are only going to go out there a few times. if you are friendly with your local climbing shop they probably won't mind you trying on a few boots just to get the sizing. Again. that's what i did and was just honest from the beginning that i was going to be hiring. 

i would imagine that double boots would be far superior in november. how much do you value your toes? advice from my own discomfort: train with ankle weights on to simulate the weight of big boots and crampons.

good luck

 Tom Briggs 07 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

The Lowa double boots are quite a bit wider than Sportivas apparently, but getting hold of them might be tricky. Might be worth asking the UK distributor? 

Our hire stock are the Zamberlans Karka and they’re reasonably wide too.

Post edited at 15:46
 nobalga 07 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

Take a look at the rock and run winter boot buying guide. Will give you an idea on fit.

I recently tried on some mont Blanc pro and they are quite narrow. The Nepal cubes felt roomier.

Can't help beyond that.  Could you not find the boot that fits, then see if you can hire them? Or see if you can find em second hand 

OP Spready 08 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

Thanks for the replies so far... definitely getting a better idea of what's needed. 
 

 andrewm1000 16 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready: Definitely double boots not single. Try on and hire in uk seems a good option if you don’t want to buy now. Don’t leave it to try on and hire or buy in Nepal. It’s increasingly difficult to get suitable boots there now. I just spent a few days browsing almost all climbing shops in Kathmandu in Nov and again in Jan and stocks are all depleted. Shops haven’t ordered new stock since COVID so there are very few new and second hand boots available atm. 

OP Spready 16 Feb 2023
In reply to andrewm1000:

Great, thanks for replying... 

Yes... I wasnt gonna leave it until there... way too risky.. 
OK... Double boots... Now have to find the lightest possible for my stick legs!!! ha

 Slarti B 16 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

I have short, wide feet and generally go for Scarpa, indeed I have have had Phantom Guides for Ice climbing and mountaineering for 10 years.   
Am off to Nepal in April and have just bought some of the new Scarpa Phantom 6000 HD.  They they seem fine  (though not yet used them in anger yet) and feel really pretty light, 2.1kg the pair?  

Not cheap but you may also be able to find some of the Scarpa 6000 old models ( with the wraparound zip) on sale if you cn get teh right size. 

 Dave Todd 16 Feb 2023
In reply to Spready:

I walked up Mera and Island Peaks in November-ish (IIRC) about 20 years ago - with KE Travel.  I wore some Scarpa Vega boots which I'd bought as ex-hire from somewhere in Fort William a few months previously - totally fine.  I have wide feet and was very careful to ensure that I had enough space for some thick woolly socks without any pressure on my feet.  You may only wear the boots for a couple of days - but they will be long days!


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