In reply to Removed UserH R:
> (In reply to Removed Userdave) I think the "Piolet d´Or" is an award created by Russians.
It's French, with some Russian input, especially in earlier years.
>The fact that Humar didn´t win the award for maybe the greatest thing in the history of alpinism seems to be a little bit strange,
Oh, come on. He did a lot of hard climbing, to be sure, but:
- the face had basically been climbed twice, once by Yugoslavs, once by Japanese, admittedly not directly, but big climbs nonetheless. It's not like he was the first guy on the face
- the line took a major detour - sensible but not aesthetic
- he did not go to the summit - again, sensible, but not what it could have been
- there was a lot of media hype, which is a personal preference, but not intrinsic to the quality of the climb, only to the budget
What about Beghin on the S face of Makalu, Kurtyka and Schauer on G4, Loretan & Troillet on ChoOyu SWface/Everest Nface/DhaulaEface in winter/, Messner on NangaParbat78/Everest80, Colonel Norton on Ev in 1924 even ?
Humar is an awesomely bold and talented climber, whose feats I will never match, but that Dhaula climb was more hype than substance.
D