Avoid Aletschhorn SW ridge

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 philipjardine 14 Aug 2018

I descended this on Saturday.  The route is well shown on the topo below.  The moraine at the bottom is extremely dangerous.  Irene, the hut warden, tells me that the "utmost caution" is required and that an alternative route is being planned.  I would stay away until this is sorted.

http://denali-sud.chez-alice.fr/fichetopo/aletschhorn%20ar.SW.htm

 MG 14 Aug 2018
In reply to philipjardine:

Thanks.  Is it the just above the green section on the topo that is dangerous?  Also, what is the glacier like?

OP philipjardine 16 Aug 2018
In reply to MG:

yes exactly.  if you go up there i will be interested to hear what you make of it.  the oberaletsch glacier is fine: lots of rubble.  I couldn't face climbing the ladders back up to the hut so we just pressed on down the glacier (mostly true left bank) to the bridge at the snout (point 2127).  The river runs underneath the glacier there and its possible to easily cross from the the true left bank to the right bank and join the south end of the bridge easily.  You can't get get to the north end of the bridge as its up some vertical slabs

if i did it again i would just go up and down from the bivi (5 star) on the other side.  Pots and blankets but no gas or stove. if you do do that, crossing the aletschglacier at the marjelenseen is easier at the moment than the crossing near the roti chumma..

 

 


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