We all know it has been a wet winter, especially in the south of England where the ground is now saturated. So it is not surprising that now we have been getting some climbable days, that I am get many reports of rock falls and landslips all over the cliff of Dorset.
We also know that the cliffs of the Dorset Jurassic coast are quite geologically active not help by their blocky and porous nature.
So this spring as you venture out to your favorite Dorset crag please take a moment to think about the resent weather, have a look at the UKC Logbook database and users comments for any updates. When you are there have a look up at your route and above its to see if there are any loose looking or poised blocks, flakes or any earth and rock cornices. Try not to hang out /picnic directly under the cliff face. Take note of any new rock debris on the floor, there could be more waiting to fall.
Just because there are shiny bolts in the rock it does not indicate the route is safe!
If you are out and about and you do see any rock falls or mudslides effecting the cliff or approach path, please firstly report them to the local BMC Access rep (that’s me for Dorset) or the Local Bolt fund, and put a note on the logbook page. Before you post on to wider social media, consider that many of the land owners look at these site and will get a distorted and over reacted view of the situation as they do not understand rock climbing in the same way, this could jeopardize future access.
I hope to get a more detailed post out in the near future of the route effecting rock fall around Swanage and Portland, but in the meantime Climb safe and be aware this spring that rock fall can occur on cliff without warning and at any time. Porous rock is weaker when damp, so holds are more likely to snap before the rock has fully dried. No outdoor climbing is without risk!
Marti Hallett BMC Access Rep Dorset
