FAO: Portland crag moderators/locals

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 Michael Chan 02 May 2023

Hello,

the anchor on Halfway to Heaven Halfway to Heaven (7b) at Wallsend south Wallsend South has a rusted maillon on one of the staples. I couldn't lower off it for fear of abrasion to the rope, and it is so corroded it cannot be undone. It will need grinding. Hopefully someone with the power tools and who has easy access can get it done. 

To everyone, please don't put Maillons on the staples. Especially one's of dissimilar metal to the staples, or ones that don't last. I had to faff about setting up a lower off from the lower bolt. 

Thanks,

Michael

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 beefy_legacy 02 May 2023
In reply to Michael Chan:

Afraid it's the same on Nothing is Cool (6c) at Blacknor Central. Managed to get the rope through the staple, but it almost got stuck. If it hadn't been a 9.1mm ... Didn't think about abrasion to be honest. Either way it's definitely not cool. Weird to leave them on the lower offs too?

 Fraser 02 May 2023
In reply to Michael Chan:

With something reasonable to hold the maillon  in place, you can just use a junior hacksaw to cut through it, it doesn't need to be a grinder. 

 Climber_Bill 02 May 2023
In reply to Michael Chan:

As Fraser says, just use a hacksaw and a pair of pliers. Only takes a couple of minutes to go through. I have removed a few in Dorset this way and always keep them in my bag just in case.

CB.


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