The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
Virtually a slab climb, although there is a roof at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Taylor 06/Mar/1993.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Duncan Disorderly | 27 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+... |
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matt perks | 26 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there. |
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Rin C | 17 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone. |
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Grade: 6c ***
(Blacknor North)