This was our first Alpine trip and we hadn't planned anything as big as this but we just couldn't resist it, especially as someone we'd met in the Neidersachsenhaus Hut (A fine & friendly hut by the way)said this was her life's achievment! It was crowded and snowing heavilly. we finished in the dark, got trampled by arrogant guides and had to stay at the higher, stinking, Erzherzog Johann Hütte, instead of the lower Salmhutte, where our mate was waiting. We had enough cash for a bed and beer each - perfect.