User Comments
Hansom cab stance at the top of p5
Steven Andrews - 26/Jun/21
Start down and right of overhangs, where a groove defines the right edge of a prominent slab.
1. 60m 4b Follow the groove and then trend left towards a perched block to belay at the back of the grass terrace.
2. 50m 4a Move right to climb a weakness up to another grass terrace to arrive below a prominent nose/pinnacle; climb a corner on its left and follow the grassy groove system above. Belay below a grass free steepening.
3. 55m 4b Climb the initial steepening and continuation grassy groove to a cul-de-sac below a large roof.
(SMC guide/original line goes right from here and in 2 pitches reaches the wide ledge to the right of the hansom cab stance before traversing it leftwards to reach the stance)
4. 15m 4a Traverse left across the slab by a discontinuous foot ledge to reach a large belay ledge on the crest.
5. 35m 5a Climb up and left to gain a large corner. Climb this/its right wall and then step right to the hansom cab stance, again on the crest (alternative E1 pitch follows the crest on the right).
6. 25m 5a step up left to climb the slab that leads right to a further slab that leads back left to belay beside pegs.
7. 40m 5a Make a big step up on to the slab above and climb its left edge to a small ledge. Climb the crack in the wall on the right.
8. 4a Climb the corner above (15m) which leads to easy ground and scrambling to the summit.
Steven Andrews - 28/Jun/21
1. 60m 4b Follow the groove and then trend left towards a perched block to belay at the back of the grass terrace.
2. 50m 4a Move right to climb a weakness up to another grass terrace to arrive below a prominent nose/pinnacle; climb a corner on its left and follow the grassy groove system above. Belay below a grass free steepening.
3. 55m 4b Climb the initial steepening and continuation grassy groove to a cul-de-sac below a large roof.
(SMC guide/original line goes right from here and in 2 pitches reaches the wide ledge to the right of the hansom cab stance before traversing it leftwards to reach the stance)
4. 15m 4a Traverse left across the slab by a discontinuous foot ledge to reach a large belay ledge on the crest.
5. 35m 5a Climb up and left to gain a large corner. Climb this/its right wall and then step right to the hansom cab stance, again on the crest (alternative E1 pitch follows the crest on the right).
6. 25m 5a step up left to climb the slab that leads right to a further slab that leads back left to belay beside pegs.
7. 40m 5a Make a big step up on to the slab above and climb its left edge to a small ledge. Climb the crack in the wall on the right.
8. 4a Climb the corner above (15m) which leads to easy ground and scrambling to the summit.